Unrealistic ftp and gsc 10 dropouts

I got on zwift with a gsc10 and it has been an absolute pain from the beginning. For one, it only with works if i disable the cadence and use only power (even though it’s advertised as a two-in-one) and even with only power it drops out and falls to zero watts every couple of minutes, sometimes every minute. in addition, it says i’m pushing 300-400 watts at a moderate effort. no matter if i’m cranking on a sprint or casually pedaling it will read me at 300ish watts, which combined with the previous issue makes me believe it’s very inaccurate. for reference, i’m a fairly elite high school runner but not a cyclist, so i should not be in pace group A lol. any help?

The gsc10 is not a power meter. It measures speed and cadence.
It will be massively inaccurate as it measures speed based on wheel rotation and using a turbo trainer this is almost a useless metric as you need to factor in resistance.

How are you pairing it in Zwift?

apologies, i meant speed not power. Not sure if this is answers your question but I have it connected under speed sensor and cadence sensor

To be fair it makes little difference. It won’t pair as power anyway or shouldn’t.

What turbo trainer are you using?

not a smart trainer unfortunately. riding on saris mag trainer

You might get better accuracy pairing your trainer as the speed source.

Somebody will advise what you pair it as shortly as there’s a way of working it out that’s over my head.

It looks like the Saris Mag is a “classic” (ie, dumb) trainer that has a power curve that is known to Zwift. The best accuracy you can get from a speed sensor on that trainer requires that you choose the right model of trainer when pairing it, select the correct wheel/tire size when pairing, set the tension correctly according to the Saris manual, inflate the tire correctly, and use a trainer tire. If you’re doing all of those things then I can’t think of anything else you can do to fix it. The least expensive fix would be getting a crank arm power meter, and it would let you race without getting disqualified from the results. The reason why most races disqualify riders using speed sensors, or forbid them from entering at all, is due to the problem you’re experiencing.

A used left-side crank arm power meter starts at around US$200 on eBay and new ones start at around US$300. Another relatively inexpensive option would be something like a Kickr Snap. Depending on where you live, you may be able to get a Zwift Hub new for around US$500 which would deliver a better riding experience compared to a wheel-on trainer. Direct drive trainers cheaper than the Zwift Hub are generally not very good.