I have shifting problems. Shifting is most often okay from 4th cog and up (shifting to lighter). But for example shifting from like 5th cog to 6th (shfitng to heavier) requires that I jump to 7th and then back to 6th because it wont stay at the 6th cog immediately. The more outwards on the cassette I shift the more noise. I had it “adjusted” along with the trainer by a mechanic. But still poor shifting.
Nishiki Race Carbon year 2012 (2x10) with FSA crank
New 50/34 sprockets front
New wire to rear derailleur
Front derailleur Tiagra 4700
New chain for 10 speed (fits Ultegra and 105)
Cassette Sunrace 11/25
New rear derailleur Shimano 105 5701 SS (Short cage)
I tried with replacing the sunrace with my “road” cassette CS5700
I tried with the on delivery supplied distance as well as with the road cassette distance
Is shifting/riding on trainer supposed to be noisy?
What bikes do you have on your trainer? Are they noisy? I´m not a fan of music in my ears.
Your new cable has probably stretched a little and your gears need to be indexed. Search for this video by GCN on You Tube to show you how to do it " How To Index Your Gears - Adjusting Your Rear Derailleur".
I second Stuart’s suggestion. To eyeball hanger alignment, imagine a line running through one of the rear cogs. It will be perfectly perpendicular to the ground. Now imagine a line running through the derailleur pulleys. Is it perfectly perpendicular to the ground? You can often see the difference. Hangers are usually bent inwards, and in that case the line through the pulleys will be slightly angled inward toward the tire. (It’s also possible for the derailleur to be bent but the hanger still straight.) When the hanger is bent inwards, the effect is that if you adjust cable tension so it shifts OK in the small cogs, by the time you get up to the larger cogs, the derailleur will travel too far with each click.
if you take your bike on and off a DD trainer at any point you will have to get comfortable with using the rear derailleur barrel adjuster if you want perfect shifting or it’ll never be quite right. you shouldn’t have to touch the limit screws and there are plenty of youtube tutorials out there on it, parktools probably have one
This is usually caused by the cassette not sitting in exactly the same position on the trainer freehub vs the freehub on the wheel. It is often possible to make it perfect with the right collection of spacers. It’s no different than having two rear wheels of different brands that don’t position the cassette exactly the same.