Another gearing question - sorry if it has already been answered, but not sure if there is an answer.
First off: I understand how trainer difficulty works. This is NOT a trainer difficulty question.
On my bike the gearing is very deliberately set-up for making climbs in real life. My biggest gear is 49 (on the big chainring) and 13 (at the back), my set-up is biased towards smaller gearing that helps me get up and over the Alps every few years.
In the real world, I will rarely push that gear unless I’m going downhill; most of my time is spent in the small ring at the front at a reasonable cadence.
But in Zwift when racing/riding and not in erg/workout mode, the only gear I can get reasonable power numbers from is my biggest gear. I end up going up AdZ in the biggest gear I have; which is mad.
As an example, my FTP is 299. I will only be able to ride at 299 in the biggest gear I’ve got. If I drop down 1 gear then I’ll end up spinning like a washing machine to get anywhere near 299. IRL, if I rode in my biggest gear then my legs would snap after not much time!
In other words, when I’m in the real world, my maximum realistic gear is somewhere in the middle of my range, but on Zwift, I have to put it in the biggest gear and keep it there because anything else is too light and doesn’t give me the power output. In the real world, I’d go up AdZ in my granny ring, but on Zwift I can only go up in the polar opposite biggest gear I’ve got.
When going uphill, this is less of an issue, but for level or downhill sections it’s a bit annoying and means I’m effectively riding Zwift on a fixed-gear bike.
Is there any setting I’ve missed that can essentially offset my gearing to make it harder at lower gears, to give me the range? As I said at the start, trainer difficult is not going to help me here because TD only helps when going uphill.