Much of what you say is true but you must remember that E Racing is a different discipline of riding than road racing.
A top road racer may not be a top e racer.
Just like MTB, Crit, cyclocross etc
Muscular people who might be at a disadvantage on the road can over power top lighter road riders, especially if they have strong endurance.
Most e races are shorter than IRL road races.
The pedals are good.
It was your pedalling style that brought the attention.
Didnt we just establised that Zwift isnt like anything in real life ? You have to get that out of your mind when reviewing Zwift races. It just cant be compared.
And there is a live stream from that race on YT. One of the HCT guys streamed it, and besides a pull halfway through the winner of that race never was at the front at all, since others were pulling. He just followed as everyone else in that race tried to do, since the pace was so fast.
And the one finishing just 4 seconds behind him even had a lower avg watts at 60kg.
The button is hidden for some reason. If you click on the empty space on the bottom right you will hit the reply to thread button.
Anyway sorry off topic.
zFTP 291
FTP 302
It says on his ZP profile.
yeah, that’s just how i raced.
I looked back at the profiles of all the races I did before the pedals, all - including the first one - have me ‘microbursting’ and ‘coasting’.
it’s kind of how I always raced IRL. I can’t ever really recall doing a race that wasn’t constantly fighting for position and sprinting out of corners, then coasting and recovering if you got a nice draft or if the pace eased off.
Also when we started working on shorter bursts of power, my coach started telling me to ‘take the speed with you’ in Zwift races (literal translation from Dutch), as in smash a short burst just before the foot of a short climb, then you can take it easier to the top without getting dropped. I think this advice inadvertently started my ‘sticky watts adventure’, I was like ‘wow, if I hit 650 for 10 seconds at the start of a climb, I can coast a bit, then sit back down and pedal to the top’.
Also, having raced the Dutch windswept classics, I’m instinctively primed to always be overtaking riders and moving forward, because in races here, if you don’t do that, you’ll get dropped in the crosswinds. That also had me constantly spiking the watts, then easing off at the front. I also used to instinctively ease off the watts in the run up to a corner, then sprint out of it!
I really didn’t know I was getting a second or two of free watts, I thought it was just ‘momentum’ from the burst and that the initial registration of the increase in power was also delayed by a second or two, and this was the cause.
Tbh I am glad I have discovered this and changed trainer. A flatter power profile suits my physiology far more than sprinting and coasting. After recent testing, my coach said I am an ‘ironing board’ and have a good Zone 4 and 5, but comparably rubbish 6 and 7. Recently I have been racing primarily on the latter 2.
Plan is now to boost FTP and Zone 5 and practice drafting, and staying in a steady position with consistent output in ‘B’ races and the A pace group.
I’ve done 340 as a steady constant 95rpm 20 minute effort and 403 as a steady 5 min effort, which are equal to or higher than the ‘average between 6/7 and 1’ I’ve been getting from the ‘microbursting / sticky watts’, so I don’t think I’ve got much to worry about in terms of fitness.
In fact, I think all this time spent out of my aerobic comfort zone has made me a stronger rider.
Sure, the pedals are awesome. A teammate uses them with his Tacx Neo and doesn’t understand my issues. I want to ask him to try the Hub One, because I think this trainer doesn’t work well with PM pedals. It doesn’t have consistent or adequate resistance. I noticed earlier today that with the virtual shifting on the Kickr I use a much lower gear to get higher watts and it feels realistic. Like I said before riding the Hub One above 300w feels like riding through lumpy porridge.
Honestly, I think Zwift Hub One, plus virtual shifting plus Assiomos is a disastrous combination for racing.
Here is the last race I did before I got the pedals: ZwiftPower - Login
Look how mad the power profile is, it’s like a seismograph in an earthquake!
I hope people can understand that if you don’t know anything about sticky watts, have this pedalling style, then switch to Assiomos, it’s perfectly possible to get sticky watts without having a clue what is going on.
Come one, guys. This is elite pro crit amsterdam earthquake style racing and not sticky watts. Don’t be rude and let him cheat in peace.
He only did it on purpose this one time, where a cheater was called out in chat and he tried to defeat him. He is basically Robin Hood or Batman!
There so many better cheaters (weighing only 50kg but they are eating a burger on their profile pic) than him, so please focus on them instead.
Hey f*ckwit,
Have you read that I bought a Kickr v6 and ditched the pedals?
If I was cheating on purpose, why would I publicly declare it here and rectify it by spending 800 Euro on a solution?
Or did you just want to wade in and feel righteous? and say things you’d never dare say F2F?
And this is your first comment here.
I guess things can only improve from now on.
Honestly, what’s your problem? Defending the legions of obvious weight dopers to have a crack at someone who has admitted accidentally cheating and spent a fortune on new gear to prevent it being possible? Are you getting dropped a lot or something?
Good detective work! Indeed it’s a small hidden region and that works.
I’m not trying to troll you and I hope you are just trying to get accurate power.
I want to point out some things and you are free to address these points as you see fit and don’t feel obligated to publicly post any data but doing so may allow others to assist you.
You had a trainer and used it and you have Assioma pedals.
There was a difference in the power reading of those two devices but you never publicly provided a dual recording of a race.
The trainer may have been lower than the pedals because of poor accuracy or your pedal style.
I don’t know if sticky watts is a pedal thing or a Zwift thing but it only occurs with a certain style of pedaling.
You have a new trainer but the newest smart trainers with virtual shifting are having significant accuracy issues too.
A dual recording helps show where the discrepancy lies.
In my case, for example, My Kinetic trainer and my Assioma pedals are almost always between 2-4%.
Yeah, my trainer , as calibrated , is pretty accurate but it also provides info going the other way.
The way I ride, my Assioma pedals are very accurate.
I know this by the dual recordings that I do.
We don’t know how inaccurate your 1st (or 2nd) trainer is.
We don’t know how the pedals performed and we don’t know whether it was your pedaling style that has caused the discrepancy.
If so, it will still be there with new trainer.
I’m not spending even more money on a cycling computer to do dual recording, just so guys like Pansen can’t call me out for cheating on a training tool / cycling game. Especially as I’m rarely in the top ten of the massively unimportant and irrelevant even to the participants races that I am doing. Even the riders with professional setups in the elite ecycling competitions are getting controversial DSQs, with previously approved trainers being banned and all sorts of technical irregularities creating controversy among people with nothing better to do.
If Zwift racing doesn’t work well for riders who don’t maintain a smooth as possible power output at all times, that’s not my fault. Racing isn’t ‘your best average power vs my best average power’.
The whole thing has already been a great opportunity to burn money and increase my general misanthropy, to be honest. It seems to combine the worst of cycling with the worst of peoples online tw*ttery at times.
I agree with you on this point and I’m not asking anyone to buy more hardware just for this purpose.
My big current issue is to try to encourage people, who already have all the equipment needed, to just go ahead and dual record.
This is the way.
Surely, you have all you need.
If you and your coach have access to any outside data, then you just use that same set up only you do it with your trainer.
Have you ever used the Assiomas outside?
I do, because I looked at the wahoo app reading the assiomos as I was pedalling and compared it to the Zwift Hub One.
The Hub was always reading 10-15w lower when over 300 watts, especially once the thing was warm.
I just don’t have the means of capturing and recording this, and can’t be arsed to splash out yet more money on technology just so people I have never met won’t call me a cheat.
Zwift Hub - 500 euro
Zwift Ride - 800 euro
Tacx Flux - 699 (going back to dealer)
Kickr v6 - 850 euro
Various freehub adapters, Zwift Cogs etc - 100 euro
Frustrations building these things and dealing with one bike being campag, rim brakes, the other shimano disc brakes, and the woeful instructions for Zwift Ride assembly - incalcuble.
Personal highlight was trying to mount my CAAD 13 to the Tacx Flux 2. After breaking my goddamn derailleur and calling the dealer I learned that Cannondale use an odd thru axle length that doesn’t quite work with some trainers…
It’s been fun. There comes a time where my funds and patience are just in short supply.
Instantaneous readings can be difficult to compare if you are accelerating and decelerating.
It sounds like you were dual monitoring and that’s a great first step.
That shows that you have all you need.
You just download the Fit file from Wahoo and plug it into Zwift Power.
The first time I did it, it took 40 min and my Laptop to do it.
Now I know the technique and I use my phone and have it done and uploaded 4 min after I finish a ride.
yup, but as i don’t have a cycling computer it was basically just recording to the wahoop app on my phone, for looking at afterwards.
I might get a computer once the weather gets warmer, but then it is for outside only.
Do you have a Wahoo head unit or just use your phone on the bike outside?
If you are using the Wahoo app, then there will be a Fit file for the ride and thats what you need.
When I say cycle computer, I mean the head unit on the handlebars.
I just have pause saying “head unit”.
I’m just an immature Bevis and Butthead!!
You could use an app on your phone for double recording as well. The Wahoo app would do okay (indeed I have used it as such myself as well) except that it has an unfortunate habit of always setting the crank length to 172.5 mm on its own without informing the user.
You can use the (free) Jepster app, If you have an Android mobile:
That’s what I used, was perfect (have a Garmin 540 now).
For iOS perhaps (?)
I know people used to whinge about it in the old days, but things like a Garmin bike computer are pretty useful for Zwift - tracking and showing all the metrics that Zwift does not show.
It used to be that showing “average power” or lap power was a big no-no because it was supposedly used by people to sandbag in racing (ie, keeping their power below category limits - no longer a thing).
Now we have some of those details like average power already but not everything.
They are really useful for tracking lap power on the big climbs in Zwift.
