Similar issue reported over here…
Thanks Mike and one other for replies. I was asking if zwift would consider accepting files from Stages computers. I imaging they are all .fit files, garmin, strava and stages.
Douglas Badger
Email support and they can fix it for you. Probably one of the fastest and most responsive support groups out there tbh
The other way to avoid this issue is to revert to the previous app settings so that your outside ride is not uploaded to Zwift. You will lose the small amount of outdoor XP, but will preserve the streak bonus for when you next ride on Zwift.
Or just email support every week it’s an issue until they fix the bug
There is a UFO sign on Tempus Fugit.
It’s unlikely that this is related to the game release, but there’s not enough information here to say much about it.
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Thaks all, I’ve started doing that now - force-quitting the app every time. I also completely uninstalled the app, rebooted the ATV and reinstalled the app. That seems to have helped - Zwift doesn’t crash when I start it up any more. Unfortunately I’m chasing a different issue now, where my power registers fine with Zwift but suddenly my speed drops and I lose contact with the group I’m riding with. This only seems to happen during high power episodes, like contesting a sprint or short climb. Separate issue but one that has been reported by others. I’ve got a ticket open with Zwift support and we’re trying various things to narrow down the problem.
If you’re seeing Watts on the HUD and you unexpectedly slow down, my first guess is you accidentally hit the brakes on Play or Ride controls. There is a setting to disable that (Braking Sensitivity). I just leave it off all the time because the cost of accidental braking is greater than the benefit of braking.
Thanks Paul. Your comment made me realize that my power issues started around the time I added Zwift Play controllers. Today I didn’t connect them to Zwift and I didn’t have any issues. So that’s something I can continue to watch.
You can change the brake sensitivity (all the way to off) so you can still use the other play controller functions
more on that here
It’s not so much the braking that I suspect is causing my power issues. Rather it’s the addition of two more bluetooth devices (the L & R controllers) for the iPhone and Zwift Companion to manage. But I do appreciate the tip about disabling the braking. The only time I’ve used braking, at least on purpose, is to make sure I get behind the fence before getting zapped, or to drop back to a pace partner.
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Very similar experience here when I first started with the play controllers and tried to pair all devices directly with my Mac via Bluetooth. Power readings were strange - low, delayed - until I turned off the play controllers. I found pairing via companion app to help - I have my phone on the handlebar. With the bridging everything runs stable at the moment.