Thank you for contacting Schwinn Fitness International.
I’m sorry to hear of the trouble you are experiencing with your Schwinn IC8 and the Zwift app.
We are aware of the compatibility issue between the bike and the Zwift app and are working with Zwift to determine a resolution. We do not as yet know how that resolution will be implemented (through the IC8 or through a change in the Zwift app) but once a resolution has been reached and is ready for implementation it will likely be done either via a firmware update through the IC8 itself or an app update with Zwift. We are working diligently to come up with a solution but do not, as yet, have an ETA on when or how that solution will become available.
I am sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. If you have any additional questions, please let us know.
Thank you,
Shawna Garrett
International Technical Department
International Main line 00-800-2277-1111
International Main Line Australia 0011-800-2277-1111
Well, now that i recalibrated my bike. Racing seems very realistic. My wattage and heartrate are very close to others around me. My ftp probably dropped by more than 120 (yet to do the actual ftp test again). So i am happy with how the bike is setup now. If they bring a software update. Wouldn’t that make my power output plummet?
It would make your power output more accurate, hopefully. How do you know that the calibration you did gave you accurate power? Can you confirm the numbers with a second source or on a friends smart trainer?
hi guys!
any updates from schwinn yet? been a while @Sasha_Douliez are you still happy with your calibration? I have a IC8 as well and feel like a pro on zwift, which clearly i’m not
Thanks!
Hi I was wondering if you could help I’m a complete newbie, I’m an avid walker who’s trying to be kinder to my knees. My question from reading this thread is, what would I need to get this to work with Zwift? I just have the bike an iPad and an apple watch so far, many thanks xx
I was looking at this bike since I’ve been meaning to get one and because a lot of cheaper options are sold out. I stumbled across this forum while researching. Do I understand correctly, that this issue is not just with Zwift, but even when using the bike on its own, the readings will be incorrect?
It’s quite baffling that such a problem exists at this price range and even more that it hasn’t been fixed.
Hi Ralf,
My experience is the rpm, time and resistance level are correct. The rpm is displayed more like a speedometer and can be tricky to get an exact number. It is up for debate wether the resistance is calibrated correctly, but the resistance read is consistent and repeatable.
I’m not sure if speed or distance on a spin bike is ever a real metric however your average speed multiplied by your time should match the distance and on my console that is not the case.
Calories burned is inflated which is the big one and relates to the incorrect power being sent to zwift.
Yes, ever since i calibrated it’s been much more realistic. Haven’t won a race ever since. I’m gonna do a new ftp test one of these days.
Remember, the distance on your console does not account for any uphill or downhill distance. So when riding uphill, your computer thinks you’re travelling at the same speed.
I find that riding on flats, the distance is very close to what zwift shows.
Thanks Sasha!
I calibrated mine yesterday and enjoy it so much more now, since it seems realistic. It’s so much more motivating
Since the IC8 is not a smart trainer, how do you choose your level of resistance when going uphill? Let’s say a 12% incline would equal what level from 1 - 100? (Or is it irrelevant, since zwift looks at the watt?)
Depends. If you’re racing or riding with the group. I try to equal the groups w/kg. So i adjust my level accordingly.
Going uphill sometimes i stand on the pedals at low rpm in level 65. Sometimes i pedal at a high rpm at level 30.
But here’s a good tip. In a race, make sure you have momentum right before the climb so crank up the w/kg and you will be at the front of the pack.
This also counts for racestarts. 5 seconds before the start, give it a good effort and hold that for 2 to 3 minutes. After that the pace settles down.
The calorie counter on the actual console is less accurate. All it’s taking into account is heart rate and speed/resistance. It doesn’t have age, weight, or anything else into account. Zwift’s calculations are the ones I go by as they’re more accurate. They are taking power watts output, age, weight…etc into account.
Glad i found this thread, still reading over everything but I was wondering about my new IC4 i bought in February, it has said i am doing some 40Km/hr up a hill…when Zwift says otherwise. I hope i didnt spend $1,100 CAD for an inaccurate bike, otherwise whats the point!
Still reading this thread but is there a way to benchmark the bike to see how accurate mine might be and if it has the fixed console already? Or would i need some external sensors?
So, of course, I am also experiencing the same problems as everyone else reading over this thread…but I just tried to quantify the missing accuracy by installing one of my Garmin Vector 3 pedals onto the Schwinn IC8.
First, I calibrated the Schwinn magnetic brake.
I then went through the “FTP Ramp Test” with the Schwinn pedals on and the Schwinn integrated power meter connected to Zwift. My FTP turned out to be 307W. Way too high. My usual FTP after riding outside is calculated at around 210W.
I then relaxed for some minutes, installed my Garmin Vector 3 pedals and went through the FTP test again. This time choosing the Garmin pedals as power meter source. This time, I got 216W as my new FTP.
The Schwinn seems to be more than 40% off reality!
This is definitely a Schwinn problem which needs a fix soon.
I will also contact Schwinn/Nautilus with these results.
I did the same thing, so I had to calibrate it a 2nd time. I simply made the MAX to where I couldn’t pedal anymore even if I stood up. It seems accurate now, but it would be nice to have a calculator or something to verify I’m riding at the correct WATTAGE on zwift per my weight and cadence.
Yes. I calibrated three times. So no more calibrations possibles unfortunately. It actually seems to be more like 60% off. I did some simple 75 rpm at Level 20 and my Garmin pedals returned 100W while Schwinn returned 160W. I have contacted Nautilus Germany and will keep you posted once they eventually get back to me. This is definitely not delivering on their promise to be compatible with Zwift. I have now installed my Garmin pedals until a fix is available. It’s just not that much fun to have the Zwift rides coupled to Strava and seeing all my average wattage go through the roof…
