Pedro, just above here, on this forum, posted by Matt Larson: I followed those and my wattage numbers now make much more sense and I can use Zwift without passing everybody.
Thank you!
Great idea! Since my last post I have been racing at level 37 from 40-41 ish. My goal as I improve is to lower the level while increasing the cadence and keeping the power constant or improving. This way I feel I am not cheating myself.
I’m kind of concerned about this “powering” issue as I have just ordered a Schwinn IC4 and it’ll be around 60 days for me to receive it. Does anybody know if other cycle apps (i.e. Rouvy) act similarly as Zwift, concerning this “overpowering” issue or is it just a Zwift issue?
So Luke- if I understand your question correctly, it sounds like a question that I have been wondering about also when I eventually get my IC4 which is on order. You’re saying that for example, if there is an elevation of let’s say 5% that the bike will adjust accordingly as the bike information is taken into account and I don’t need to fiddle with the resistance knob trying to find 5% elevation? I’ve always wondered how this works.
No, the IC4 will not automatically adjust anything unfortunately. All I am saying is - with a properly calibrated IC4 there must be some equivalence between elevation % and IC4 resistance. If I knew it, I would be willing to adjust resistance manually to mimic it.
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It will be all around because the bike doesn’t have a power meter.
Word on FB is some C4 riders doing the C race on Zwift today at 11:32. Crit City race
Zwift only use what the trainer/bike send to it. If you connect a bike computer to the bike you should see the same power numbers as on the zwift screen.
I found it to be about 2-3 levels for 1-4% and 1-2 level for everything that.
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After about 5 weeks with the IC4, I’ve found myself using it with a paid Zwift subscription far more than the (still ongoing) free Peloton trial. Kudos to Zwift!
Initially I didn’t think the whole calibration & power accuracy topic would matter to me. I figured I would just measure my progress against previous solo efforts
Turns out I was completely wrong - I’m hooked on the races, where power accuracy is important. Also have buddies who organized friendly but competitive meet-ups, and it is the same situation.
Zwift, Schwinn - please help the situation! Provide some means to a reasonable power accuracy. To be in line with Kickr Core or Saris H3, this would be like +/- 2% for the IC4
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I found a company called Tempo Power that will mount a power meter on any flat back crank. I have a new resistance sensor on the way so that I can calibrate, but if I’m still not getting believable power data from the IC4 then this is my “Plan B”
Notes:
- The cranks on the IC4 are NOT flat back, so this will require swapping cranks
- The cranks on the IC4 are square taper. You can get a decent flat-back square taper crank via ebay for around $20, especially since we don’t care about weight
- The power meter is ANT+, so you will need to check if your device supports ANT+
- Even if your device supports ANT+ you will probably need to install drivers
I just got my IC4 and performed the initial calibration. Should the calibration # have been “2” by default? I’m assuming calibration “1” was performed by the factory.
Did you get the Tempo to work with the IC4?
I haven’t gotten it yet. Nautilus sent me a new resistance sensor and instructions on calibration and now I’m getting Zwift results that much more closely match the real world.
I’d still like to get the Tempo, but the owner of the company says that they are coming out with a dual band (ANT+/BTLE) version soon and there will be some price reductions, so I’m waiting on that.
Good to know. Where you able to find a crank that was flat on the inside and fit the IC4? I’d like the info on that if you can share. Thanks!
(Basically, do we know if this is a ‘standard’ square taper crank arm?)
I saw some square taper cranks on eBay for under $60 that looked to be in good shape, but I didn’t do any more than that until I hear back from Tempo.
My bike shop says it is a standard square taper crank (I asked them first about a power meter. They said they didn’t have a good solution for a square taper crank other than using power meter pedals, which doesn’t work for me because my wife wants SPD.)
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Thus the reason my wife has her own bike 
Also note the IC4 crank arms have a 25mm thread, so you can’t use a standard 22mm crank puller. You either have to have Schwinn send you a 25mm puller, or find another way to pull the arms off.
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Good to know! Thanks for the heads up!