What’s the maximum resistance like on your SMB1 V2?
On 32 it doesn’t feel that hard to me. I was expecting it to be like going up a 20% hill but it’s nothing like that. More like a slight incline.
Thanks.
Tacx neo bike its much beter then using your own.
Hi there, when i’m using ZWIFT my bike doesn’t show the level of dificulty…
On the app in the “Trainer dificulty” menu i turned it off. And it works better.
Best regards
Boas!
Deduzo que sejas Português pelo nome.
Queria perguntar qual é o teu feedback acerca da V2, vale a pena?
Obrigado
Boas, sou tuga mesmo tuga vivo na Amadora. Olha eu estou mesmo muito satisfeito com ela mas eu sou amador eu dou pedaladas 2 ou 3 vezes por semana e nunca passando os 30 ou 40 km de cada vez, às vezes 20km… a unica coisa que não cinsigo meter a funcionar é a mudança da resistência automaticamente, quando há subidas ou descidas… Mas digo-te que o calculo do programa é super fiável… Se tiveres mais alguma dúvida estás à vontade para perguntar…
Cumprimentos,
Paulo Moreira
Boas,
Sou de Evora, costumava fazer BTT mas não tenho saído a horas de ir pedalar e como já estou a chegar ao 3 dígitos, tenho de ver se faço alguma coisa.
Onde comprastes?
Paulo César Duarte Moreira via Zwift Forums <gozwift@discoursemail.com> escreveu em qui., 2/09/2021 às 21:49 :
Tb ando lá perto dos 3 digitos… lol
Comprei na gymcompany, foi rápido e onde o preço era mais baixo!
Cumprimentos,
Paulo Moreira
I use a Schwinn ic800, it works fine for me both for training and races. It send all necessary data to Zwift including cadence, power and heart rate. It’s also very compact and silent.
On the downside it doesn’t have ERG mode, so it’s necessary to adapt the magnetic resistance manually, from min to max it’s only about 3 full turns of the handle, I kind of got used to it. The difficulty level doesn’t have any impact at all in game or as it feels, so I left if at 50%. Another problem probably common to most smart spinbikes is its calibration, this model only shows a level (0-100) which is interpreted by Zwift trough an hardcoded power curve that is only indicative and may greatly differ from the values measured by a professional sensor. The Schwinn ic800 has a calibration procedure, but it is necessary to try and compare the data with an external sensor, it must also be said that the console only allows three attempts after which it locks up. I don’t know what my real FTP is but this setup puts me in group D, or with great effort in group C. I can live with that estimation since I don’t plan to do professional races. In practice it would also be possible to fit zwift compatible sensors to any dumb spinbike, but for me the cost was also decisive as the Schwinn costed as much as a good power sensor so I preferred the compromise and dedicate part of the budget to my outdoor gear. But obviously everyone has to make their own considerations.
My IC4 works great on Zwift. Having a dedicated indoor bike means no fuss of having to disassemble your road bike every time you go indoors. Also, no added wear to your road bike. I can race, do group rides, etc. It’s essentially being in ERG mode the whole time and because the IC4 doesn’t recognize hills. The only thing you’ll see is your speed drop off and you’ll need to pedal faster or manually increase resistance each time. The IC4 generally overestimates your watts so I’ve recalibrated it. I’d recommend a power meter.
Also, there’s no coasting. You’re working the entire time. The only time changing resistance gets tiresome is during workouts when there are 30 sec HIIT sections and changing cadences. Zwift is constantly telling me to speed up or slow down. If you don’t want to touch a lever, button or knob the whole workout, go for a smart trainer.
It all depends on your budget and personal preferences. If I had a large budget I’d trade in the IC4 and get a Kickr Core and find a descent used dedicated indoor road bike. But the IC4 gets the job done.
Como vai o teu feedback? A bike continua sem ajustar a resistência á inclinação no zwift?
Obg