Hello,
please does anyone have any idea why I got DNF during the race?
Race: Stage 2: Kick ‘N’ Sprint: Glasgow Crit Circuit || Advanced (A) on Glasgow Crit Circuit in Scotland - August 17, 2025 - activity/1942284787532202016
Thank you
Pavel
How legit is that 480w 20 min effort that you have?
You were coned during the race whilst being a minute up the road from the rest of the field. Its not called the cone of shame for many reasons.
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I have Schwinn 800 IC, pulse heart rate sensor as is requested. All data are visible under my profile and also on Strava profile … I dont need any frauds because I do it for fun … thats all. podvody
As Lee suggests i would advise checking your setup as the power numbers you are putting out are unbelievable so not surprised you got coned in a zwift race.
What trainer/setup do you have?
There’s very few believable 20min race efforts since Jan ‘22, in that since then they’ve typically been 400-473.
And not a single top10 or KOM on Strava.
Where/when was the call from Sir Dave?
It’s weird though trying to figure out his results though in those late March, early April races, or even the 7th place finishes in misc races.
I have a feeling a hard landing is incoming if you are going to call other racers snails for not keeping up with you, when reality sets in.
You can contact zwiftpower@zwift.com and ask them about your DQ. People here on the forum can only speculate about the reason, but it’s probably because your power numbers are not believable. To understand that, you can get advice here if you share details about your trainer and/or power meter.
To avoid DQ in the future, you will need to investigate whether the equipment is accurate, such as by dual-recording with a second power meter. If you find a problem and correct it, you can contact Zwift using the above email address and ask them to invalidate all your prior power numbers so you are placed where you belong in the racing hierarchy.
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Maybe this is one of the new verification algorithms that were just released.
Good to see that 400+ for 20 min raises eyebrows.
Still, I blame the snowboarder with a wheel on trainer.
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I think I found the problem…
your equipment is not accurate and I assume doesn’t have any real power meter, you should not particiapte in races until you can verify your power numbers are genuine, otherwise this is essentially cheating.
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reality in 3…… 2….. 1……
As others have pointed out it’s likely your spin bike is hugely overreading your power as it does not have a proper power meter.
If might be fun for you but it’s not much fun for anyone you race against when you are putting out power better than world class riders and just riding away from people to win easily.
I would argue that if you were to get a new bike with proper power meter you would find it a lot more fun as races would become competitive again and the enjoyment of actually winning a race will be a thing. You would also be allowed to do some of the better series that are private like TTT, 5v5 ladder etc
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I have already contacted Zwift support about this. I bought the bike as suitable for Zwift races. I had no idea that I was buying something that would cause these problems and that I would be accused of intentional cheating. Until Sunday, there was no problem with it.
I don’t ride races to win, but because I enjoy it and at the end I want to enjoy the joy of winning a sprint by 50 places …
And about those wins … unfortunately at times when I can ride and there are not many riders in the given category. I also don’t enjoy it when there is no one to ride with.
It looks like I will have to spend another 1,000 EUR to be able to race.
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Unfortunately there are no moderately priced spin bikes that actually have a power meter. None of them are suitable for racing or just knowing how much power you are producing. The best reasonable cost option is to put a bicycle on a direct drive smart trainer, and it’s best if the trainer is one of the mainstream models that is well understood and sold in volume so you can get advice about purchasing decisions and solving problems with it. For example if you had dropped into the forum or any other public discussion area and asked about that bike you bought, you would have gotten a rapid reply that it’s OK for cruising around but can’t measure power properly.
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That’s the hard truth. No one is questioning your effort, just the output that your trainer gave from it. You were sold equipment that makes false claims about its suitability.
Good to see you owning it, and hope that you continue to work just as hard on more accurate equipment.
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This is also part of the problem of being an A+ rider. there are a lot less of them so finding a good race at certain times is tricky.
If you were to get a new bike i suspect you would probably drop to C/B range and have a lot more options to find populated rides.
Likes of kickr core is about the cheapest option for trainer right now.
Or if you dont have a bike or want to buy something similar to your spin a zwift ride could be a good option.
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Thank you very much for the tips.
I bought this trainer during Covid because I needed some sport. Then I gradually started racing more and more and it can be seen in the race history.
I just have to check how noisy the equipment is, I live in a house and not in a family house.
I Decathlon is also available Van Rysel D100 with “Zwift Cog and Click” - it could be similar to the “KICKR CORE Zwift One” right?
Actually, I’m most attracted to KICKR CORE.
And as for the category, if I’m a B or a C… I really don’t have a problem with that. 
The Van Rysel D100 is a very low cost trainer with a limit of 600W and no cadence measurement. Many riders can produce more than 600W in a sprint. It’s only a good choice if you can’t afford the Kickr Core which is a better trainer, and the Core is much more prevalent since it’s been on the market since 2018. It’s also on sale right now.
C category is the best category for race attendance because it’s right in the middle of the distribution of normal people. The riders who are unfortunate enough to end up in A category have few good racing options.
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the Kickr Core is not loud, your fan will be louder than the equipment (assuming you have a clean/maintained drivetrain on whatever bike you are using), the Kickr core is a great choice.
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I would also put a rubber mat under the trainer to reduce vibration. Virtual shifting will eliminate the occasional clunking noise from changing gears so that helps. It won’t eliminate the chain noise entirely so it may be a little louder than a belt drive indoor bike.