This trainer is a really popular entry level trainer sold across the country in the UK. It would be great if this was added to the Zwift supported Classic Trainers list so that we can get more accurate power approximations when using Zwift.
Hey, did you get this sorted? I have a bikehut turbo and want to use it on zwift with the Garmin speed and cadence sensors.
Thanks,
Emma 
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I have the same question, having just bought a Halfords Turbo Trainer but am trying to work out what is the nearest equivalent Zwift-approved trainer to select. Any ideas? I am also using with Wahoo Cadence and Speed Sensors and finding it works very well.
Thanks.
Richard
As long as nobody with a powermeter doing tests with this trainer and construct a powercurve, nobody will know to which trainer it can be compared and at which setting.
If anybody has a powercurve, you can compare it with the curves here:
Thanks. Have any riders out there run a PowerCurve test on this Halfords trainer?
The solution I settled on was choosing a magnetic trainer from the supported list that had a similar number of levels of resistance as the Bike Hut trainer. I set the resistance number to be the same as the one the power curve was assessed for on the supported trainer.
This created two caveats for me
- I morally cannot compete in races
- I never quote the watts figures I get in Zwift to anyone, ever.
As long as I keep training on the same trainer on Zwift it will deliver what I want because ultimately my max efforts are just that regardless of whether Zwift thinks it’s 200W or 1000W. Gains will still be had.
I imagine you will ask me the name of the supported trainer. Well, I don’t know if it’s an update or what but Zwift no longer lists it on the connect devices screen that always appears when you launch Zwift.
So I don’t know which trainer I picked from the list apart from that I think it had Mag 3 in the name.
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Sup good people,
So I am in the same position, bought the Bike Hut trainer for £50, had fun for 3 weeks and then decided to get on zwift. I’ve been using it on zwift with a speed and cadence sensor (Sunding from ebay = £12.68) and is working perfectly.
I’ve been playing around with the resistance to find the right power output… findings below.
I set the bike hut trainer on resistance 3, had my bike in the hardest gear and did a FTP test. I was able to manage 300w as my FTP. (This power output was on this setting, on any another setting my average power drop to 200- 240’s over a 20 min ride.
Checked with a friend who is a triathlete and has been training for years and his FTP is 240w on a proper direct drive smart trainer (£500+)
Now I’ve changed the resistance to Level 4 and the results seem accurate. I am now getting 200W as my FTP in the middle gears of my rear wheel. Cadence is around 90’s… so I thinks it is in the range.
I weigh 71 kgs, 5’10 and run frequently (5k = 22min), so my fitness is a bit above average.
Hope this helps everyone who is using a Bike Hut Trainer and wants to Zwift.
I’m having heaps of fun and can recommend this set up if you don’t want to £100s on a set up or only in the UK for a short time and don’t want to spend big on something you can’t take home to your country.
I’ve just purchased the sunding hear rate monitor as well for £7.69 from ebay.
Hope this helps you all!!!
Peace Out
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Hi Dylon,
What trainer did you select in the Zwift setup for it to calibrate the power against? That will also make a difference to the power values you quote, wont it? I’ve also got the Bikehut trainer (which I love - great workout for a fraction of the cost of a more expensive one!). I selected the Lifeline TT-01 Mag Trainer seeing as it looked like a fairly equivalent trainer (it says to put it on setting 1) - but I’m aware my power is likely to be a bit off - as Marcus says its more for my own training reference and cant be compared with others (I’ve actually recently just started using the turbo on setting 2 without updating my FTP for that setting as I was finding there wasn’t enough resistance and wanted a bit more of a challenge).
It would be great if it could be added to the supported trainers list so I can benchmark my FTP against others and fairly do races/group rides etc.
Thanks,
Hi Elinor,
I selected the ‘not listed’ option at the very bottom.
I am still tweaking it to try and find the right setting. I’ve tried resistance level 1 and 2 and my power output on Zwift is very low and I find that my cadence is too high. 120’s.
I guess that you need to try and find what works for you.
After a race this morning, I may have overestimated my FTP and it is not 200, its more around the 180’s on resistance 4. So I am going to drop down from group C to group D.
As long as I am competitive and have a fun race + I feel like I have had a good workout, I am happy. Can’t ask for too much.
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To everyone, I’d be grateful if you hit the vote button at the top if you haven’t already.
All the best
The only way zwift updates its trainer list is if zwift gets that specific trainer and tests it. Halfords isn’t even in zwift HQ land as far as I know so I doubt they will be getting one.
I have found two is ok but on Alpe du Zwift o AVG 3mph ,
On flat routes or Sand and Sequoia it is fine.
On Rouvy two is more accurate on climbs.
I have tweaked settings till it matches my outdoor Strava AVG watts etc.
I have a speed and cadence sensor whilst in zwift and rouvy.
Got an amazfit neo coming tomorrow for heart rate sensing.
Is there a power curve test we can do to match the Halfords bikehut trainer to Zwift properly ?
This may help . A buddy of mine has the Halfords bike hut turbo trainer and used it for a while on Zwift with Wahoo speed sensor and a Wahoo cadence sensor. It was obvious to me that his power figures on Zwift were way optimistic.
This weekend I borrowed his wheel and trainer and calibrated using my TT bike which had a Quarq D Zero crank based power meter.
In the pairing screen, I selected ‘wahoo cadence sensor’ and ‘speed sensor’. This brings up the list of trainers that Zwift have calibrated and it does not include the Halfords (Bikehut) turbo: so I selected the ‘Lifeline Magnetic TT01’ which is very similar in appearance to the Halfords trainer.
I found resistance level 3 gave way over optimistic power numbers whilst resistance level 4 was a bit pessimistic. The solution was to fine tune it using the barrel adjuster at the trainer end of the control cable. With about 5mm of the knurled bit protruding and resistance at level 4 it is now in agreement with my power meter. I recorded a 10km run and compared the Zwift power curve with the power meter curve using the analysis tool in Zwiftpower. Accuracy was spot on. Not all trainers will be exactly the same but use the same adjustments and you may not be far off. Incidentally I inflated the tyre to 100 psi and warmed it up by riding for 15 minutes before recording anything. A cold tyre gave higher power numbers until it warmed up.
I’ve attempted to attach a picture of the zwiftpower comparison power curve after calibration. As I hope you can see it is pretty close. In fact I got the exact same difference when I compared my Tacx Neo power curve with the Quarq D zero a few weeks ago!
Greeting Zwifters!
Has anyone figured out how to take the info kindly provided here by @Outlaw_Hobbs Hobbs to get a more accurate wattage. He has calibrated very similar to a powermeter, but without that powermeter I’m struggling to figure out how I use the data?
Is there sometime I’m missing. Or is it as simple as putting my trainer on resistance 4, checking the barrel adjustment is similar 5mm as mentioned by Outlaw?. This means I have an FTP of 300+ I just don’t believe I’m there yet.