Accidental cheating

I’m not familiar with Wahoo.
In my response, I specifically referred to the pedals performance to my trainer when calibrated.
In the process of determining how to improve the accuracy of my trainer, I also discovered what it takes to make my trainer “less” accurate.
Dual recording shows whether the trainer is high or low.

I’m trying to encourage everyone to dual record.
I’m not asking people to go buy new hardware just for this purpose but, many people already have the hardware and they don’t do it.

By doing so, we can develop a library of info to help others.
I can now say that my Kinetic InRide 3 is most accurate when the spin down factor is 1.7.
If others can confirm a similar result, then people who don’t have pedals can adjust their trainer based on that info.
The owners of other trainers can help others and we can , collectively, determine the good trainers.

I’m 100% with you on this…many have the option to do Duals but they are to lazy to do anything.
Anyway on the otherside you have many that just cheat also with Same source duals :face_with_peeking_eye:

I still didn’t see any explanation for why the assiomas should be right and the home trainer wrong?
For me (I have a Tacx neo bike with assioma pedals, but also a bike with force dual side recording, and another one with sigeyi dual side recording and two bikes with one side dual recording and also have a wahoo kickr core at my girlfriend’s home), all my powers are similar : the pedals over report 1 to 2% depending on the cleanliness of the transmission…
The wahoo core and the Tacx Neo bike report the same difference, and my spider based power meters and pedal based powermeter are coherent.
So for me the 8% difference come from 1 to 2% because of pedal based powermeter PLUS 6% because of sticky watts.
The only solution is to accept you might be less powerful than you thought….
We (in A category) are all the same, we the interrogations about the other riders : are they really what they say? (For me, yes I am really 54kg…)
You should ride in closely cured events like the cyclo by foudre on Sundays : everybody with strange behavior or who cannot show evidence to prove they are legit is DQ’d.
We discovered that way a few cheaters but also some hidden gems, with people who’s strava was not public but who got some prestigious koms or cups on strong ascents. These were legit even if we thought at first not…

So I have done some experimenting.

I changed the watt reporting from 3s average to 1s.

To get the ‘sticky watts’ thing I need to make a hard stop pedalling for at least 3 seconds.

If I soft pedal, or stop for 1-2s, it doesn’t happen, the numbers go rapidly downwards, they don’t ‘stick’.

If I do engage the sticky watts on purpose, I do indeed get 3 seconds where the power stays at the last recorded level, before dropping to zero. But, when I start pedalling again, it takes 1-2 seconds before the wattage registers, so by my estimations, at the most you get 1-2s of free watts.

If I put the 3s average reporting on it’s a real mess - this is where my over acclerations have been coming from I fancy.

I don’t believe I am regularly stopping for 3+ seconds and I ain’t doing any of this on purpose. I also believe I’m burning unnecessary matches by smashing too much power due to the slight delay, which I’m then compensating for by coasting / stopping. This balances out.

I’m returning to cycling in my mid 40s after racing elite zonder contract in NL/BE in my late 20s.

i race on Zwist very much in a ‘real life’ manner, and in real life there are times when you stop pedalling. For example, you bridge up to a group that is off the front, you are carrying more speed than the last rider in the group and you enter his draft. In real life you’d stop or soft pedal to avoid either needing to brake or ride up his backside. I tend to instinctively do that in Zwift. Hell, on some of the tight corners in Zwift races I instinctively stop pedalling on the approach then blast out of it. That’s what you get from years of racing criteriums in NL.

Also, if there is a fast few minutes and I’m hanging at the back of a strung out bunch, once the speed at the front slows and the bunch spreads out, I’ll tend to (as I would in real life) crank out a mini sprint, then freewheel into the lovely draft of a spread out bunch. Cos yeah, if you just keep pedalling, you’d need to brake, and when you race in real life at a high level you’re doing everything you can not to brake. Also, I want to get in that draft and slow down as soon as possible.

Also, IRL i might crank a little sprint up the gutter around the edge of the bunch, then freewheel rather than ride off the front and make everyone think you’re attacking. I’m not attacking, I want to get to the front and slow down to recover. I might also want to slow the bunch down a little.

The Zwift Hub is renowned to under report power by 7-8% above 300w once it is warm. There are posts on this very site about it.

Honestly, the idea that a 400 Euro trainer is more accurate than 600 euro power meter pedals whose only job is to record power and whose manufacturer claims a higher accuracy than Zwift Hub is for the birds. Especially when you can literally feel the Zwift Hub under reporting power in the second half of a race or interval training.

My view now is that as long as I don’t stop pedalling for more than 1s, and am not knowingly triggering sticky watts, I am not cheating.

So I will just not stop pedalling and focus on trying to ride smoother. Tbh I really want to do this, I’d like to spend more time in Zone 3/4/5 and less in Zone 6/7.

I use Training peaks and in a race on Friday I did 28% of the race in Z6 and 18% in Z7. Now, perhaps I ‘stole’ a few extra seconds of stickiness here, but I’m still putting in a massive effort that’s hammering my CNS and knees. And then you get called a cheat…

I mean, if you did this on purpose, your power file would look like castle battlements.

Mine look like an ECG of Atrial fibrillation.

re Zwift Hub.

I mailed a guy who who posted here that his was underreporting power above 300w.

He contacted Zwift:

“Eventually Zwift fully refunded me and said the trainer just can’t manage the thermal load applied to it by someone racing with an FTP 300+”

Feels a bit he said, she said type scenario.

Have you got any actual dual recordings where it over or under reads? I have no doubt there are faulty units out there, but have you tested yours?

300w is neither here nor there in numbers front… Its a 100kg rider at 3wkg which is no great shakes. Hell I had a 300w FTP (past tense) and I got spat out of Cat 4 races regular. Seems like something a support person might say without any real info or understanding to back it up.

though… to highlight, the Zwift Hub was discontinued…

Dude I used to race elite zonder contract in my 20s and finsihed some UCI.1.2 semi classics in Belgium.

I know what 300 watts is, and I know I can do it.

1 Like

And you have just held it up as some magic number a trainer cant support once reached.

Do you have dual recordings or is all this based on hearsay

1 Like

I don’t know how to do dual recordings.

I’m in my mid 40s and when I last rode races only the top pros had PMs (SRM) and I didn’t even race with a cycling computer.

Trainers were wheel on and you watched movies while you rode.

All this stuff is new to me.

I have written to Zwift.

Honestly, the idea that you’re suggesting it’s hearsay that a cheap and discontinued trainer isn’t accurate with watts at powers higher than the target market (beginners) would generate is a little daft.

The vibe I’m getting from you since the start of this discussion is a bit ‘you’re cheating and not as good as you think you are’.

It’s not necessary.

1 Like
3 Likes

Dual recording is not that hard and when you get used to it it takes 2mins after your ride to upload.

You need to record one of the power sources to a bike computer and the other on Zwift.

Here is a youtube video step by step

1 Like

To summarise for you,

You wont use the trainer as you think its going to under report - Not confirmed its under or over reporting just a thought so its written off as no good. (It might be, but you cant confirm)
You have an issue with sticky watts and have been advised how to resolve this but you dont like the response.

Yes the Jetblack Volt \ Zwift Hub was a low end trainer, but thats Jet Black market, the Victory is also a cheap trainer that is actually getting some decent reviews and being compared to trainers £1k more expensive.

You seem to have made your mind up about your situation without much knowledge going into it and are looking for confirmation that you are indeed right about everything.

Anyway, that will do. Hope you solve your sticky watts issue so you dont rack up any more DQs.

The equipment is only accurate with in certain parameters.
The pedals are good and accurate but users can create an environment that is outside of the defined parameters for accuracy.

Ok,

Haven’t had any DQs. My team got an alert (not from Zwift but from the WRTL, which apparently uses AI to spot irregularities) over irregular racing style and we wondered if it might be me. It didn’t specify what was irregular or who it was.

Either the trainer underreports, or the Assiomos over report, because the first ride I did on the Assiomos was an FTP test on the Grade and my FTP went up by 25 watts. What’s more likely? A cheap trainer that claims 2.5% accuracy and has been discontinued, one that apparently doesn’t require calibration (it self calibrates apparantly) or respected PM pedals properly caibrated? Or you think I was knowingly riding up the grade sprint / stop to artificially generate a higher FTP so I can brag on the internet?

Oh, and yeah, of course I don’t like the solution to use the sh*t trainer that underreports power.

Not confirmed? I have someone telling me that Zwift refunded them and told them the Hub can’t handle the thermal load for extended periods above 300w. Are they lying? Or am Iying?

My response is that I tested the sticky watts issue with my current setup and it only triggers if I stop pedalling for 3s, so I will ride smoother and not stop pedalling. And also, I have written to Zwift to see if I can get a refund / replace.

It’s actually my responses that YOU don’t like.

You seem to be very bothered about sticky watts. if it’s cheating you don’t like, why not focus on the legions of weight dopers? Or people who are reporting World Tour wattage with low HR? Or people who are actually getting DQd for irregularities?

Because sticky watts are one of the biggest cheats and also the most easy to spot.
It is a very big advantage… and almost everyone who races a lot on Zwift and who is serious about it is dual recording. So always trainer as primary, pedals as secondary.
That’s it. No discussion, it is the gentleman agreement, so that sticky watts can’t happen.
Assiomas are very nice, I have them too, but they are not useable as a primary recording device on any serious race (elite level).
When you were racing 20 years ago what did you think of doping? Was it legit ? No.
On Zwift weightdoping, sticky watts or electronic doping are not legit. End of discussion.

6 Likes

Seems legit.

So you think that’s me deliberately cheating? Riding up the last climb in a group of stragglers?

Because what was actually happening was me trying to keep my average over 300 (just because it went to 298 before the last climb) and also having zero motivation to kill myself for 34th place.

So I kept riding too hard, having to stop, getting frustrated, then pushing again, repeat until the top.

Honestly, I have been screwed by a cheap trainer, PM latency that I didn’t know about, and a ‘cheating’ I didn’t know about until recently - and even then I didn’t get a DQ, and have come on here and asked for advice on how to stop it.

Those of you who have basically suggested I am knowingly cheating and am not as good as I think I am can all get f&*ked, to be honest.

Wish I’d known this before I bought the cheapest smartrainer then enjoyed riding so much that I rediscovered my level, found out the trainer is whack, bought the pedals as a solution, got promoted to A, got dropped a lot, hired a coach, worked insanely hard on improving my numbers etc etc

Gentleman’s agreement? I did a race recently in which some 50.0kg winner did 6.2 w/kg for an hour with an HR of 155.

So always trainer as primary, pedals as secondary.

What happens then if your secondary is recording power well above your primary? Be happy with getting dropped?

Just use the trainer.
Your gains will still be real.
Dual record the rides using trainer as primary and pedals as secondary then you will know how YOUR setup is behaving.

1 Like