Is it a fluid trainer or magnetic? If magnetic does it have a resistance selector button/lever?
The weight adjustment can be a good option for helping to ride with leg cyclists too, I’ve heard that from other hand cyclists. Hopefully you can get the trainer working at a reasonable reading without that (so it doesn’t feel like cheating 
) but then you’d have the option if you wanted to of dropping the weight if you for example had a group ride with leg cyclists you were worried about. If you’re riding socially for a ride, I don’t think anyone cares.
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Magnetic, 8 different tension settings
Riding socially, not for racing. If weather cooperated, I’d be outside!
I’m new to hand cycling just this year, and tried a few 5/10ks. Hoping to go for a 1/2 & full marathon next year!
Finding the Zwift app for me was mind blowing, because it actually makes me WANT to train indoors (indoor training bores me to death!) Even before having to be in wheelchair/Handcycle doing indoor training was a chore, now I’m actually excited to train every day.
I’ll keep trying different things on the app to see what works. Even try adjusting the trainer to different settings. Eventually I’ll be purchasing the Wahoo Kickr - but hoping to get by with what I have for the time being!
That’s me too Trainerroad+Netflix got the job done, in a way that made me not want to do it, lol.
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You might try increasing the wheel size to the largest option. Larger = more distance per revolution
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What sensor are you using?
Will give it a go!
Thank you guys for all your help, I truly appreciate the tips!
Fingers crossed!
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Just to add to this, a “heel on” trainer is never going to be as accurate as a “wheel off” trainer. if you stay with Zwift long term I’d seriusly consider investing in one. The “Zwift hub” is a very affordable way of improving your riding experience all around, not just fixing this issue, you might want to check it out:
I purchased the wahoo kickr snap this past week; still reading my watts of 35-55.
I calibrate (spin down) before every ride.
What could still be causing this issue regarding the watts?
Hmm. So I take it that with the new Snap, you’ve made the sure tensioner is tightened against the wheel however Wahoo instructs? (I just ask because with some companies it’s hard to find that info (looking at you, Kinetic). Did you calibrate it in Zwift, or in the Wahoo app? Zwift themselves recommend not calibrating using Zwift.
How strong would you consider yourself to be, arms/upper body? You mentioned above that you have friends who are hitting 150–that’s some good power. It still might be something with the trainer that we can figure out, but if you’re just starting out, you also want to not beat yourself up with too much too soon in the way of expectations
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I calibrate (perform the spin down) via the wahoo app.
Tensioner is set correctly, see to the largest chain ring; since it is almost impossible to calibrate to medium ring.
I’ve been seeing many other hand cyclists hitting 150-200+ watts.
I’m fairly strong, former wheelchair bodybuilder. My arms & back muscles are in pretty good shape.
I’m at a loss 
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I’m at a loss too, unfortunately. What sort of wattage are you getting in the Wahoo app when you’re doing the calibration? If it’s a problem with Zwift, you’d think it wouldn’t carry across two trainers. Unless it was something weird with your account specifically, but I don’t know what that would be. Something like an inaccurate weight (accidentally adding another decimal point for example) would affect the speed in-game, but not the wattage.
Maybe try a number of other apps, if you can get free trials. Connect the trainer, and see what wattage readings you get. I’m not sure what apps you can connect to for free–some might require a CC to get the free trial and then you cancel after. Kind of a pain, so you may or may not want to do that. But the Wahoo app, maybe TrainerRoad, Rouvy? We can at least try to narrow down where the problem is. See what numbers those other apps give you. If Zwift is the outlier, then we know it’s something with the software. If those apps are all agreeing with Zwift, then we can look at the hardware.
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I’ll give it a try, thank Thank You!
When I calibrate with the wahoo app, showing a constant speed of 24.4 mph.
But when I go to Zwift, I’ll maybe get consistent of 10-12 moh, go up to 20+moh, then back down.
I’ll try anything at this point. LOL!
Does the Wahoo app show wattage? The speed on various apps can be pretty different. A friend of mine uses a power meter and Trainerroad, and he says he gets radically different speeds if he’s in the big ring or small ring, lol. Plus Zwift speed will change with elevation. So it’s the wattage that we want to compare.
You’re welcome Hopefully we can get this sorted. If it’s a Zwift software thing, you may end up needing to submit a support ticket. Might not even hurt to do that now, get the ball rolling.
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The speed target on Wahoo Spindown has very little resistance applied and not representative in any way to what power is needed for Zwift to reach that speed target.
I have a Kickr so the Wahoo app might show things differently but when I select the Kickr, I get the below screen that scrolls over quite a few settings but also has the speed and power. As Tom has eluded to, you should pedal in that screen (not the spindown screen), and your real power/speed will show up there. The caveat being you must set your wheel circumference correctly if you want the app stats to be correct.
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I’m using a hand cycle, so hoping that it’s maybe an app “glitch” reading from Zwift or wahoo.
Literally have pedaled my arms off trying to get watts to what my other hand cyclist friends are obtaining 
Hoping I’ll get this sorted out, because I really enjoy using Zwift during this ugly weather.
Thanks so much!
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It’s really hard to understand what is going wrong here. Clearly Wahoo app is showing your front wheel spinning at 24.4mph under Kickr snap resistance yet Zwift is showing you at much less speed and power (or less power and speed)
When pairing or using Wahoo app can you take screen shots of what you are setting and seeing and post them here?
Just did two spindowns on my kickr to see how much power I am pushing to hit the 24mph target. I used my Garmin to capture it (far right of graph - you can see 2 small bumps which are the spindowns).
It’s around ~50watts and I could have lowered that easily to 35/40 watts if I focused on being smoother and taking a tad longer. i.e. you cant use spindown speed/power as a guide for any Zwift performance.
After my event, I averaged 100watts during my cooldown ride doing ~27kph (17mph)
I’m unsure how the cooldown ride values will translate with smaller circumference wheel on hand cycle but hope that provides some help/insight. Edit: I’m 74kg and it was flat cooldown ride