Ya, Zwift isn’t recognizing my PC, which has BLE…and so I went to Bestbuy and bought the ANT dongle…despite me thinking that I don’t even need that. Nonetheless, while my computer shows that it is paired with the trainer BLE, the Zwift continues to search and search and search. So, screw this, I’ve spent two days on this damn thing. It’s not worth $10/month for this amount of hassle when there is no customer support or even the smarts to fix the barriers to keeping potential customers. Pretty damn lame if you ask me. I’ll give TrainerRoad at look now that I know Zwift sucks.
Bluetooth and PC do not work without the use of the Zwift Mobile Link. This is explained fully here: https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/articles/206576683-Bluetooth-LE-BLE-Support
Stated in there also is that you should NOT pair your trainer directly to your computer as it will not pass that information on to Zwift.
If you an ANT+ dongle, then you will be using the ANT+ protocol, not Bluetooth. Make sure your sensors use ANT+
My own experience was better. As Mark Hewitt suggested, I went ahead and purchased the USB-ANT+ Dongle (Amazon Prime, who has time to drive to BestBuy ?).
Windows 10 recognized the Dongle immediately. I unpaired the laptop from BLE and Zwift recognized the Wahoo KICKR through the Dongle (no need for the Zwift Mobile Link). Zwift also recognized my heart rate monitor and cadence through the Dongle.
I chatted with a teammate who informed me I needed to specify the KICKR as both the Power Source and Controllable Trainer (I am sure that is specified in the documentation somewhere but who has time to read ?).
Once I had the Dongle setup complete, Zwift worked like I thought it should. Not sure if it was the Dongle or setting up the KICKR as both Power Source and Controllable Trainer. Either way, a much happier experience for me. I have this set-up in my garage, a decent distance from my wifi router, and so far have not had any problems with wifi.
Both my wife and I are happier now that I won’t feel the need to ride outside in the dark during the cold winter months.
All I need now is a table next to me for my SmartPhone and laptop (I have the laptop hooked into a larger screen in front of me for Zwifting).
I couldn’t agree more with the posts asking for native Bluetooth (BLE) support directly through my PC. My PC has built-in Bluetooth BLE 4.0 hardware, but I can’t use it and instead must route through my phone? How backwards is that?
I want to use Bluetooth instead of ANT+ to reduce latency and boost signal range. Hopefully this is coming soon.
I’m another having huge connection issues. I have just purchased a TACX Flux for my 2 sons and myself and after disappointingly finding out I would need to spend $30 a month on Zwift, I still signed up for the free trial to see how good it is.
It is insane that you would provide a software product that will not connect directly to a BLE laptop. I’m massively unimpressed with your timeframes. This was a problem 3 months ago and nothing has been done. The family account was raised as an issue over a year ago and still nothing is available in the subcriptions.
What a crap way to run a business :-(
How old are your kids?
If they are under 13 take a look at this thread: https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/203566393-Family-and-child-plan
On the Bluetooth issue read this one: https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/115000095983-Native-Bluetooth-Support-for-Windows-Platforms
The TACX Flux will connect a PC to Zwift using ANT+ or Bluetooth. To connect with ANT+ you will need an ANT USB dongle that you can get on Amazon for about $20. You can use Bluetooth through an Android or iPhone using the Zwift app that will accept the Bluetooth and pass it to the PC. The PC and Phone need to be connected to the same Wi-Fi network for this to work.
Hope this helps. I’ve been using an ANT+ dongle for years and it works well. I’m looking for direct Bluetooth support on my PC because it is supposed to be a little more responsive, but since I haven’t tested that I can’t confirm if it is indeed more responsive or not.
Thanks Paul, but my kids are 13 and 16. I read the trhead that was started in 2015 about it. This is why I find it so ludicrous that it hasn’t been implemented yet. It’s the same as the ridiculous answer on that second thread. “We’ve not investigated yet to see if Windows 10 exposes the functionality we need to make this work nicely or not, but as of Windows 8 it wasn’t very nice.”
Why the hell not? It’s been out a year and a half! I have several other software subscriptions with my business, for things like design software, quotation software and website and they all work seamlessly. I just can’t get my head round how phenomenally slow Zwift are with implementing anything. God forbid they ever get a serious competitor, because they’ll quickly not have a business to sell.
When I first tried to setup my laptop directly it didn’t work of course, so I saw I needed to download the app on my phone which I did. It seemed to connect, but no matter how hard and fast I cycled, the power would stay the same at 78w. I could trickle the pedals, or go for a sprint. The power never changed. It even stopped on the course a couple of times, so I gave up after about 20 minutes of frustration.
This evening I tried the same thing on my sons phone and computer. This time, neither would connect at all. I can manually pair the TACX Flux to his phone, but it still makes no difference. No watts showing at all on his phone. The only thing that was working was the bluetooth icon on the PC was showing that it was connecting, but no data was being received. It’s just rubbish. I feel like Zwift have found an old Windows 98 product and trying to sell it as something new. It feels so archaic and I’m massively disappointed.
Thanks Kevin, but that doesn’t seem to work for me.
You need to make sure the trainer is disconnected from all device (including phone) before turning on the Zwift app. Bluetooth can only be connect to one device at a time.
Have you download the Tacx app and calibrated your trainer? This needs to be the first thing you do.
What size are the wheels on the bike you are putting on the trainer? Zwift only supports 700 wheels at the moment, but they are working on custom wheel sizes.
I have a Tacx trainer and I have had zero issues using it with an Ant+ dongle that cost a little over $20.
Paul, the TACX Flux is a direct drive trainer and I’m hooking it up to my road bike (A Giant Defy) https://tacx.com/product/flux-smart/
I haven’t calibrated the trainer, so I’ll give that a go.
Same ongoing issue it seems re using Bluetooth and a Windows laptop:
The Help pages state to pair with an Android phone and then using Wifi between phone and Laptop software. Unfortunately, I have no Wifi (at local gym).
I am able to connect phone to Laptop using Bluetooth but then what?
Am I correct in saying that you can only connect to one Bluetooth device at a time? Therefore, only option to add the trainer into the mix appears to be to add Wifi or, use an ANT+ dongle. Am I correct?
For PC you can use an Ant+ dongle of use the Zwift Mobile App to bridge Bluetooth (to use the Zwift Mobile App as a bridge you must be on the same WiFi network). Using Bluetooth to connect your PC and phone will only cause issues and not bridge the BLE signal.
For a Mac you can use an Ant+ dongle, use the Zwift Mobile App to bridge Bluetooth or you can connect Bluetooth directly to the Mac.
For iOS right now it is Bluetooth only.
What kind of trainer and devices are you trying to connect to Zwift at the gym?
Interesting reading. I’ve been having problems myself with Bluetooth dropping out frequently on iOS and as a consequence I wanted to try and bridge to the PC app via the ZML. Having read the guide and followed the steps, all seemed to work with the exception of the fact that my trainer (Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+) was recognised as a controllable trainer and cadence meter, but not a power source. The result of that being that pedalling produced no evidence of Wattage either in the ZML or any pairing on the Zwift app pairing screen.
Otherwise with iOS, barring dropouts the trainer pairs as a controllable and cadence meter and power source - all good. Am a little confused now and not sure where to go to fix this.
Thank you this forum had helped me connect my bluetooth footpod to zwift run. Im now enjoying running on my treadmill with zwift
couple thinks to fix with Zwift
I have new PC fast and strong with bluetooth smart 4.0 and unfortunately Zwift no work with out zwift mobile link from mobile only with ant+ (Zwift should find bluetooth in a system and work like with ant+)
another think when you finish race or try to change something always have to exit from Zwift soft on PC and start again (it is not realy handy)
I just bought an Elite Muin with Misuro B+. I set everything up, tried to pair my sensor with the Garmin 520 via bluetooth (it worked), and finally tried to couple my sensor to zwift (of course, I turned off the Garmin). I downloaded the Android app and activated the bluetooth on the phone. However, the software searches but it is not able to find my Misuro B+. Any suggestion?
A also have a problem with Elite Digital Smart B+. It is founding via Mobile Link as controllable trainer but not as power source.
Hi guys, I’m trying to run Zwift from my pc, using windows 10. My PC recognises my Wattbike as I can see it in system setting, Bluetooth devices, however, when I open Zwift and search for my bike, it doesn’t find it, however, both my iPad and iPhone find my bike straight away.
Please help. Thank you
You cannot directly connect your trainer to your PC using Bluetooth, You would need to use the Zwift Mobile Link to bridge the signal.