Zwift Hub One Noisy

Hi Rich, I also was curious how I could optimize the rattling of my drive. That’s how i found the dissasembly video in the first pace. Here’s the link if you haven’t found it already. (replace space with period)

youtu be/jZwN_4qhsC8?si=1iCAjEBN-Pme4dzh

For me the rattling is not quite that bad, but everything that keeps the neighbors happy is very welcome, so I feel your pain. To your point about replacing the “One cog” with a standard 14 tooth cog - it seems like the “One cog” does have a little more meat to connect to the hub, which also spaces the plastic chainguides apart. So a standard cog could mean your chain would be rubbing against the plastic.

Did you ever think about replacing the “One cog” with a full 11 speed cassette and just keep the chain on the 14 tooth cog while shifting digitally? In theory with the automatic calibration you shouldn’t even have to match the number of teeth. For me this is not possible as I’m running a really old Campagnolo derailleur (no Campa freehub body for Zwift Hub unfortunately), but if you can just switch to the full Shimano cassette from your rear wheel, maybe try that and see what the noise does.

Edit: I see your concerns with warranty, so maybe changing to a full cassette is the last resort for you. I personally wouldn’t really care, the dissassembly works like every cassette dissasembly with a chainwhip and a freehub-nut, so nothing special there and also easily reversible.

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Thanks Maurice, I’ve managed to track the video down and see its pretty easy to take the cog apart. I could put a casette on as you suggest and hadnt considered that as an option.

Im going to try swapping the inner cog for another from a cassette and see what that does, plan B would be to fit a proper casette

A pain on the ar$e and was really keen for the cog to work seamlessly

So i think i found the issue, i took the cog off to make sure it was secured correctly etc and the free hub cam apart in my hand, the spring popped out and teeth were free to fall out. I’ve contacted Zwift support and asked for a replacement hub or new unit and we can see if that solves the issue. It may be that I just had a duff unit

I’ve read through this thread and the noisy Zwift Cog issues seem to have several different root causes, all of which are common. Some good troubleshooting and advice already in this thread, but nobody’s talked about worn chains yet.

Bent derailleur hanger: the dangly bit of your frame where the derailleur attaches is typically made of a soft aluminium alloy. If your bike falls over on its drive side - that can nudge the hanger off kilter enough that the derailleur no longer sits straight.

A good local bike shop should have a hanger alignment tool, which will straighten it back to parallel with the rear cogs.
In a pinch - you can do it with a hex key inserted into the derailleur attachment bolt, but if you overdo it, the soft aluminum hanger can snap.

Misadjusted rear derailleur: every rear derailleur (cable-actuated or electronically-actuated) has a way to fine-tune its position. Whenever you swap rear wheels from one brand to another, or use a trainer instead of a wheel, a tiny adjustment (i.e. a quarter to half-turn of the cable tension adjuster) might help position the chain more precisely.

Worn chain on new cog: chains and cassette teeth wear in together. There’s no way around this slow metal-on-metal grinding and the fact that chains and cassettes are wear-out parts.

If you use a chain wear tool every month or so and replace the chain before it’s stretched out more than 0.75% of its original length your cassettes will last much longer. The type with three prongs are more accurate than the two prong style. (Pedros version / Park Tool version}

If your chain’s stretched 1% or more of its original length - the rear cog teeth might be worn out too. When the squared tips of the cog teeth look like pointed shark’s teeth, or the valleys aren’t EVENLY U-shaped, those are giveaways that your chain, cassette and maybe also chainrings need replacing.

If the hanger has been straightened and the derailleur is properly adjusted, a long-used chain skipping on a new rear cog almost certainly points to a worn-out chain. If you don’t have a wear indicator tool any local bike shop can verify if this might be the case for you.

I have a brand new bike 2x8 speed and hub one, no matter how I adjust the rear derailleur it rattles like crazy, it appears to be aligned perfectly. Works perfect with the rear wheel btw.

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Sorry for being a pedant but chains don’t stretch. The pins get worn and so the gaps between them gets wider and can appear as if it is stretched.
however, the point is still valid!

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Well, I got a new chain and now it is ok.

(edited, I had an issue with my Zwift hub One but Zwift Support replied instantly and offered a replacement, big thumbs up for Zwift support!)