Why I am Too slow

Agreed, these guys deserve the Gandhi Award. I’ve never seen patience like this.

Reading OP answers makes me wanna go wreck someting.


Hi Steven,

You are right, it is an indoor training game/platform.

Right again, as Zwift is not here to judge you, but to help you keep fit in an indoor environment when riding outside may not be possible.
Getting Zwift to replicate outside riding will not really be possible and trouble solving is difficult to do as Zwifters have many different bikes with different gears and wheels and different trainers each with different characteristics.

It many take some time for those on this forum to help to solve your issues but they are willing to try. They are not paid by Zwift, just happy to help. To help them you will need to give as much information about the items you use to Zwift. Your bike details, your trainer details make and model, your connection details, your computer or device that has Zwift installed, and if you are using Ant+ or bluetooth to make any connections to Zwift from devices such as cadence meters power meters, heart rate monitors etc.
I’ve probably forgotten something but I can’t think what.

Zwift is for me the best indoor training device that has been released in many years. I can train hard through the winter, through the dark and because its 24/7 fit it around my family. It will never be real life, but 2 or 3 hours indoors is no problem now that Zwift has taken the boredom away. Help those who are willing to help you and then “Ride On” or “Zwift On”
All the best.


I seen your message about going to slow I’ve got the same problem with my wahoo kicker bike can tell what fixed it.

Remember, sometimes the “other guy” is wrong.
If your going up a hill slow and someone blows past, your set up maybe right and his maybe incorrect.

1 Like

Hi Paul, after reading the inputs from many who are facing the problems I too am facing, slow speeds shown onscreen despite pedaling like ■■■■, there is an inherent problem with zwift. I am using the unlisted rollers, paired by Bluetooth to 3 different sensors I bought to see which one works. I even bought an ANT+ sensor to try that too. I even placed the the extended ANT+ receiver right under the bike. I even tried using my MAC desktop, MAC laptop , iPad and iPhone X. All gave the same output, speed will occasionally rise to 10-15kmh and most of the ride its 2-4kmh, runners are going past me. It is clear that the software is not registering nor converting the so-called variables that Zwift has. When I connect the sensors to my Garmin Fenix 6x pro, never once I had a missed or lost signal, no matter the sensors I used. How do you explain your way out of this? So far I see the same replies, input variables not set properly, but when users tried to follow your instructions, no change. Then the latest I see is to bring the sensors back to the companies as they may be faulty. What! Please be honest with your info as it seems that the users that bring it up are the only ones facing this low speed registered issues. I am sure the queries coming in to Zwift is overwhelming and I think most of them are about the same issues. Be honest about which setups actually work and why so we can trust Zwift and invest in the right equipment if we still want to proceed. Thank you

I think the issue lies in the power curve that must be used in Zwift for the unlisted rollers. I’m willing to bet that your same sensors on a supported dumb trainer will have better results.

1 Like

Your best option with unlisted rollers is to use a power meter.

1 Like

same with me…

Are you also using the unlisted rollers?


Yes i use unlisted roller…

Dikirim dari iPhone saya

Same for me, unlisted roller, I uploaded my session to Strava, and the data there is right but in game it is too slow. :(. I’m not in a hill.

As Paul suggested earlier on this thread, the best way to use rollers would be to use a power meter. This will give you the added benefit of using the same power meter for your outside training/racing as well as inside. This would be for many a good investment as you get its benefit all year round, wherever you decide to ride.

For a good year and half I used Elite rollers (with 3 settings of manual resistance adjustment) and a Power Tap hub with Garmin cadence and it was a great set up.
I only changed to a smart trainer as I thought I was missing out. I wasn’t really.

1 Like

Surely the data on strava from an unlisted data is just the wheel speed which would be a lot higher because they don’t generally provide the same level of resistance as the road and wind. If this is the case the data on strava is not correct (not realistic for the given effort to go the stated distance). Am I incorrect?

If you are using unlisted rollers doesn’t that mean the aren’t really supported?

I think most people’s work around is they look for another set of rollers and see if the effort and speed on the flat match up. Zwift doesn’t want you to do that though.

Hi, just downloaded Zwift and tried to ride for the first time, however I seem to be going incredibly slow, regardless of how fast I pedal.
I’m using an iPad and have the garmin speed and cadence sensors connected.I’m on a dumb trainer. The speed takes a long time to pick and I can’t go faster than 20km/h at the very most.
Also the in game cadence cannot get higher than 60, even though I am pedaling around 100RPM in reality. If I check the Paired devices, the cadence sensor reflects accurately, however as soon as I go in game it is low again.
Pretty frustrating as not sure how to fix this

Hi @Stephen_du_Preez welcome to Zwift forums.

Shuji at Zwift HQ here. It looks like your Functional Threshold Power is set to zero. FTP is a measure of your power output, and if your number in-game is too low, your avatar is barely going to move. If the FTP is too high, it’ll be incredibly difficult to turn the pedals because the game thinks you’re stronger than you are.

Please log into the game, pick a world, and start riding. In the lower left corner of the screen will be a Menu button.

Select Menu, then edit your public profile. There will be a pencil icon under your name. Then you’ll see a setting for FTP, which for now you can manually set. Start with a modest number, like 100, save, and go back to riding. See how that feels.

Then bump it up to 200. Does that feel too low? Try 300.
If 200 is too hard, then cut it to 150.

There are ramp tests and FTP tests you can do to more accurately determine your ability, but you can try the manual method to see if this addresses your issue.

What trainer? Were you able to pick it from the list of supported trainers?

Check this post for more info on how your speed will work with speed and cadence sensors on Zwift. How Does Zwift Determine My Speed?

1 Like

I had this issue using my Magene trainer paired with Zwift thru ant+. Ride speed was normal until someone used the treadmill beside me, Zwift speed suddenly slowed down by almost half. The smart trainer produced inaccurate speed/power data for some reason. We turned off the treadmill to test my theory, then Zwift speed went back to normal.