When I’m on a red incline, Zwift won’t let me go over 20watts

Zwift works fine on any type of incline, until it gets up to the 10% and over. I turn my gears down but Zwift doesn’t let me go over 20 W or go faster than 2 km/h. This issue just started yesterday.

Hi @Olivia_Francis

I don’t really understand the question.

What is the watts on flat road.

What trainer do you use and how do you pair.

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Hey, on flat roads my warts or whatever I’m peddling. But for some reason when I am at 10% incline or higher the watts do not go over 20 and zwift doesn’t let me go over to kilometres per hour

Please tell us a lot more detail about your setup. What exact trainer do you have, what device do you run Zwift on, how are they connected (e.g. ANT+ or Bluetooth).

Also as Gerrie asked, exactly what sort of watts do you see on a flat road?

Check that your weight is set correctly in Zwift too.

Sorry to make this more confusing. When I’m on a flat Road the wattage is whatever speed I’m going with my legs i.e. 150 to 300. But whenever the incline becomes 10% her over the wattage immediately goes down to 20 and I am unable to go over to kilometres per hour even though I’m pedalling as fast as I can. Are use the SARIS trainer off of Amazon. Are use my phone to Zwift In the trainer is connected through Bluetooth

which one? Is it wheel on, or direct drive?

Wheel on. Also now my issue isn’t just over the 10% incline, it’s any time I’m trying to use Swift. I just hopped on and was unable to barely move.

This is a screenshot of me pedalling a top speed

There are numerous models available, please be more specific.

Ok, that one uses magnetic resistance correct? Do you have a resistance level controller to set the magnetic resistance? Zwift should tell you what level to put that on when you pair the trainer/speed sensor.

Sounds like perhaps your wheel is slipping versus the roller at high gradients (high roller resistance), which would produce the low watts that you’re seeing.


I’d agree that this sounds like wheel-slippage, possibly with reduced tire pressure.

Has the set-up been calibrated recently? Tire pressure checked? Clutch knob setting checked?

On Saris’ blog site (Smart Trainer Calibration: Hot and Cold – Saris) they have this recommendation for their wheel-on smart trainers:

"Before you calibrate your wheel-on smart trainer, be sure to do the following:

  • Mind the PSI : Inflate your bike tire to the highest recommended PSI listed for your wheel and/or tire. Doing so will help get the best interaction between your tire and the trainer’s clutch knob.
  • Get a Trainer Tire : The tire you use can impact calibration, which is why we strongly recommend the use of a trainer tire.
  • Let the Clutch Knob Do the Work : Make sure the clutch knob is fully engaged with the rear tire (i.e., you hear an audible click, like a gas cap). The clutch knob will compress your tire at least halfway toward the rim. The tire will not pop. This is okay. This level of roller-to-tire engagement prevents slipping during a ride, excess wear on the tire and more accurate readings."

I got it! Thank you so much

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Thank you!!! I figured it out with your help!

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I WIN I WIN!!! :rofl: