What chainring for Hub One trainer? And mountain bike?

If I ever purchased the Hub One, I’m thinking I would try replacing the stock 14t cog with a 20-tooth cog and using my big ring instead of the small.

Could you explain that for someone who‘s not that firm to all that things? The gear ratio should be always the same, as it’s controlled by the hub. What would be the advantage of this?

Larger rings and cogs are supposedly more efficient – less wrapping of the chain around smaller diameter cogs/rings. I can’t quantify it, but I always prefer to be on my large front ring (with a larger rear cog) than in my small ring with a smaller rear cog for normal riding on Zwift. It just feels better somehow.

Just to add… I’m not a strong rider. I guess doing this would also give me a bias, that regardless of what the trainer can do, I could always still downshift my front ring to the small ring and have even more lower gearing. OTOH, I don’t know I could ever max out on the high end in either scenario.

I have a one hub chainring question. I just got it and if I am in the middle chainring up front the chain is straight and not too noisy but my derailleur rubs on the trainer when pedaling which is no good. It doesn’t rub on the rig ring up front but then my chain is not aligned and therefore noisy. I’ve talked to someone at Zwift and they had no idea what to do and were no help. I’ve emailed and sent videos with no reply. I’ve fixed it for now by propping my derailleur in an open position but this doesn’t seem great either. I don’t want to adjust my derailleur since I do ride that bike which is why I got the one hub for ease of training/riding outside. Any ideas out there for me?? Does anyone have any secrets on how to get support from Zwift since there customer service so far has been nonexistent and frustrating for me??

It’s normal to need to adjust the derailleur when it goes on the trainer. To avoid that you could try adding a thin spacer (eg, 1mm) to the freehub of either the Cog or to your cassette depending on which way it’s out of adjustmet.

Paul, I read OPs issue as slightly different to a side to side adjustment. I can’t quite explain in correct terminology but I wonder if chain is generally too loose (or derailleur tension not good/strong enough) and it is actually the derailleur which is touching the plastic parts of the one Cog. The explanation of being generally ok in the big ring suggests to me that as chain tightens derailleur moves backwards (edit forwards?) away from the one cog. In addition I’m wondering if ‘propping my derailleur in an open position’ means moving it backwards (edit forwards? ) away from cog somehow - I can’t figure how.

If the chain too long or derailleur tension not quite strong enough might these be possible issues?

Hmm yes that seems possible. I wonder if the B screw on the derailleur is long enough to push it away from the Cog. Probably not but maybe worth a try. Info about B screw adjustment is on this page:

It might make sense to take the whole system to a bike shop for evaluation.

Bob, I’ve found when the Zwift app has just loaded and it starts attempting to pair with everything (ie the smart trainer, your HRM, Zwift Click) you want to tap on the “Click” to awake it so it pairs up.

Dave,
Thanks I figured that out, pairs good now but still leaving cassette on

Bob