The update definitely did not fix mine. I have the Kickr Core that came with the Zwift Ride. I’ve updated the trainer and the game, done multiple spindowns (factory and regular) with the Wahoo app, tested it riding with the Wahoo app and a negative gradient, and nothing works to fix the issue. Zwift acts like it’s news to them that this is happening and just pawned me off on Wahoo (though they haven’t yet answered a request for support). So, they’ll just keep selling the Zwift Ride knowing that it has a pretty serious issue with trainer accuracy. Does anyone have the Kickr Core and can confirm that the update worked?
I did the update, but the problem remain. I got a Move. Do I need to do a factory spindown with the Wahoo App (and not connected to Zwift)?
I’ve tried that several times. It seems to only temporarily fix it. As soon as you go downhill again the problem comes back.
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I’m still seeing quite a few riders with tell-tale ghost watts in races like this week’s ZRL where there was a long downhill. If you view the fit files in Zwift Power you can see 5 to 15 watts show up.
It’s hard to tell if they are on the latest firmware or if the issue is ongoing, but for me I haven’t seen ghost watts since the first firmware update.
Its a shame we don’t have a level playing field. I guess its too much to ask that Zwift/Wahoo ping an in game message for anyone connecting a KickR who’s not on the latest firmware?
Still having free watts despite the 2 recent updates + 3 spindown with the new “beta” app “wahoo pro spindown”. Quite frustrating that Wahoo nor Zwift are unable to fix this bug…
Hi Pierre
Have you performed the Factory Spin down in the official Wahoo app.
What was your braking factor, your unit may be out of tolerance?
Hi Steve,
I haven’t tried the factory spindown in the official Wahoo app since I got a Kickr Move and wasn’t supposed to do so. A friend indicated me that there was a beta app named “Wahoo pro spindown” that I was supposed to do to perform a spin down with the Move. That’s what I did.
I’m not sure what you mean by “bracking factor”?
On Zwift, with the Zwift Play we can choose to reduce the brake option to zero if we don’t use it. That’s what I did. But since I didn’t connect my Move to Zwift to perform the factory spin down with the app, it mustn’t be this… ???
that might explain why you are still seeing the ghost watts.
There were release notes with the firmware. You’ll need to do a Factory/Manual spindown.
This should clear the issue and will report back your braking factor. Which I believe is the friction in the system.
Thank you Steve. I’ll try this tomorrow (I didn’t had this information previously). I’ll let you know if it’s work (I hope so!)
Unfortunately this did not work for me. Did it work for you? Do you have the Kickr Core?
I’ve got the V6.
So far it seems to have worked. My brake factor was 1.08. I emailed Wahoo and they said this was within tolerance.
Zwift World Series has been immediately suspended due to this issue. ZHQ is working with “all the relevant hardware manufacturers.”
My understanding is that the list is as follows:
Wahoo
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Is there a communication somewhere about this?
Yep, I’ve seen a copy of the email today.
The race scheduled 5th December has been postponed due to a high volume of hardware issues. It doesn’t specifically mention Wahoo. But Wahoo is only on of three approved manufacturers for Elite racing.
Zwift also says its not a Zwift specific platform issue - which is true - But its the implementation of virtual shifting with Zwift platform that has highlighted the ghost watts (power offset) issues with the KickR trainers.
They are giving manufacturers time to resolve the ‘edge case’ issues and release firmware updates
Hi, does anyone have a persistently higher watts using the zwift cog and click? It’s about 12 - 13 watts consistently higher on a workout that I did this morning. I initally thought that I’d maybe tightened lock ring too tight and going to give that another look tonight. First time I did it I actually snapped the plastic lock ring so I’ve asked Zwift to send me another one (don’t know if they will or not?) so I’ve currently just got a metal lock ring on currently. My next thing is to try the old cassette to see if that works better if the lock ring makes no difference.
Also, if I return to the original cassette can I use zwift play and somehow disable virtual shifting?
ie for steering
Yes you can use a normal cassette. The choice is yours.
I ride with a 9 speed Shimano cassette, and have used the Click for virtual shifting and also turned off virtual shifting and gone back to mechanical gears.
The watts power offset should have been rectified by the latest firmware.
What firmware version are you on and what was your reported brake factor after completing the factory spin down?
Hi Steve, thanks for the response. I’m going to try and reassemble the cog tonight to see if that’s my problem - ie if the lock ring is too tight. I’m on the latest firmware, I’m sure of it as it did the update when I set it up. I’ll check the brake factor when I do another factory spin down.
Is it possible to use steering on zwift play with virtual shifting off?
Peter
yep, there’s a setting in the game where you can toggle off virtual shifting.
From memory its under hardware. Then you can still have the Plays connected for steering and menu buttons.
If you want the plays just for steering, I can recommend an Elite Sterzo. But if you want all the shortcut buttons then the Plays are the way to go.
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