Had to change my Direto Trainer to a new one! Now everything is Ok!
Had to change my Direto Trainer to a new one! Now everything is Ok!
What was wrong with it? How did you exchange it? I’m pretty sure my unit has some sort or electronic problem and needs replacing but not sure how to make that happen
Hi, I’m a software developer and extremely stressed out about previous employer’s QA requirements. This sounds like a good gig, any openings?
You might want to remove your personal information from your post (i.e., email, phone number).
I have a retail sportequipment store nerbye who have these Diretos for sale. I did conntact them and they gave me a new one.
The company who imports these trainers to Norway, had a show just that same day in that spesiific store and they could not manage to have my trainer work allso.
Did talk to Edwald Boasson Hagen on that show and he allso uses Direto
what’s was your problem?
Did you get the new Direto II?
No resistance in the Direto what so ever, got a new one at a local bikestore.
And then the bug went away?
Yes, no trouble!!
But let me know about the first Elite one’s bug, there wasn’t resistance att all (never) or more a sort of fluctuating resistance at a certain wattage?
I bought my new 2018 Kickr in December, had it replaced with another 2018 Kickr in January 2019 due to other Kickr issues, and I am still having this resistance issue despite it being “Fixed” with an update back before I even bought the trainer.
Your exact trainer (including the year if applicable) Wahoo Kickr 2018 The device you’re using to run Zwift Macbook BLE or ANT+ connection? BLE Zwift Game version current Trainer Firmware current Sim or ERG mode Both?
You can look at my workout data and see a clear difference starting in early December when I bought the first trainer. Prior to December (using a 2014 Kickr with no issues) I generally was in the 4-5 w/kg range on races. Workouts in ERG mode I had no issues completing. After getting either new Kickr 2018, I rarely get above 4.0 w/kg on races and I cannot complete workouts in ERG mode unless I drop the power 10% and even then I’m barely getting by. It is frustrating that I’ve lost two months of training on this issue that an update prior to buying the trainer should have resolved
I think this may well be down to trainer. I used to have an original kicker and it always read high for power, around 20-30w. I was winning B races and had a high FTP until I bought a NEO then I dropped to a C and had a realistic FTP. Think it may just be a case that the new Kickr is accurate and your old one read hig, not sure how you can think this is a Zwift issue? - do you have another power meter to check against?
I think it’s a Zwift issue in relation to the other issues included with this forum post because when I turn off the Bluetooth and turn it back on (as some have suggested earlier in this forum post) it temporarily resolves the issue and my numbers go back to normal. But my numbers only go back to normal for that workout. I shouldn’t have to turn on/off the Bluetooth before every workout. I haven’t used my old Kickr since purchasing this one because it is broken but I’m going to try fixing it and comparing the two to test what you are saying. But the Bluetooth temporary fix makes me believe that it is a zwift issue in line with the other issues suggested here
That would be a good comparison, or if you can get hold of a powermeter for your bike. I have P1 pedals and they read the same as my NEO so I know that my numbers are correct. The Zwift issue isn’t around it working but giving the wrong power numbers, it was a case of it wouldn’t control the trainer. So it would read cadence and power but not simulate the hills in Zwift and therefore ERG mode wouldn’t work at all as it wouldn’t control the trainer. Your issue (which is probably the kickr) isn’t what this whole thread is about. Maybe you should raise a support ticket as I doubt you’ll get an answer on here. It’s a known fact that the original Kickr exagerated power number, that’s why people love to race on them LOL. Just trying to help.
Thanks for your help. I understand what you are saying with the difference between the two Kickrs. I’ve literally only been using my first Kickr and not any other trainer since 2014 so I just wouldn’t be aware of the differences. But what still bothers me is that my power numbers do go back to “normal” ( compared to my 2014 Kickr) when I do the bluetooth trick. I haven’t tried just doing everything ANT+ so maybe that will produce different numbers too. I dunno. It’s just frustrating. I decided to treat myself and buy a new trainer after 5 years of use rather than repair an old trainer but what’s happened is this issue and seemingly two months of lost training
It does not make sense that the source of the problem is Zwift. Zwift is only displaying what data it is given. If the power numbers are not right, then it is source of the power (i.e., Kickr). Sounds like you have a bad board in your new Kickr. Contact Wahoo. There customer service is great!
Like @Jamie_Bishop_Crescen mentioned above, I too had a 1st Gen Kickr. Mine was a consistent 15-20W higher than that of both of my bikes which have their own power meters. I switched to a Neo for noise reasons, but the Neo lines up with both of my bikes.
I’m not really sure what the issue is, zwift kickr or otherwise. Yesterday I did an activity with ANT+ instead of Bluetooth and everything was normal as well. So the only time I have issues is when I connect via bluetooth without doing the bluetooth on/off trick first. The issue though isn’t that the numbers are low, but that the numbers are not sustainable. Say I wanted to hold 300 watts. In bluetooth without the trick, I can hit 300 watts but then it instantly drops to almost 100-200 less even if I’m increasing effort. With the bluetooth trick or on ANT+ I can hold a consistently high power output without it completely dropping out. I have a ticket with zwift support but should probably start one with Wahoo too just to see what they say
Loss of resistance is a known issue, especially with Workout/ERG mode and iOS devices while using Bluetooth. Zwift is constantly tinkering w/their Bluetooth code with the intent to improve it, but they’ve obviously broke it at the same time. I forget which release last year, but after that particular release, tons of Bluetooth issues suddenly appeared for users who had been problem free for months and/or years. Personally, I have experienced the resistance dropout only once.
Another Bluetooth “feature” they introduced that sucks is that Zwift automatically pairs w/devices even if they were not used in the previous session. This was not always the case. So now, I like many others, are now constantly unpairing and/or re-pairing devices before I ride. Ideally Zwift should only pair the devices that were used in the previous session. Why make it so damn complicated?!
Anyway, your initial post made it sound like the power numbers are low as in incorrect. That is a totally different can of worms. Different trainers. Different power meters. Etc…
Are you able to grab the log file for a ride/session where the resistance issue occurred? You could submit that to Zwift. You could also run it through Zwiftalizer which might help you see what is happening.
Per Zwift Support, the issue is that I was pairing my trainer with Bluetooth and pairing everything else (HR strap and cadence sensor) with ANT+. They sent me this article which was helpful https://support.zwift.com/en_us/bluetooth-issues-and-macs-(cycling)-rJgNZ0yWBQ
Either using everything ANT+ or turning on/off the bluetooth before every ride seems to solve the problem and my numbers go back to normal. I am actually able to complete an ERG workout now and I don’t ahve to shift into a harder gear going uphill anymore just to keep up in rides and races!
That’s great news. Glad you got it fixed and it wasn’t the trainer or the iOS issue that this thread is about. Now you just need to catch up on training