Tacx Blue Matic

(Jay Queue [BZR]) #1

I was so excited to see Blue Matic support in Zwift, finally I could ride along:-)

First thing I checked were the settings from https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/articles/204009179 - they seemed OK.

I set my Blue Matic on lever 3 and rode. But the watts seem a bit off if I check the table on https://www.tacx.com/en/products/trainers/blue-matic#tab_2?

For instance, I wanted to push 120w so according to the table I ride at 30km/h (I checked the speed with my Garmin). But I’m already at 130w if I do 27km/h? 

What am I missing here?


(Jon) #2

Mag/Adjustable trainers are unreliable for power calculations.  The best we can do is make an educated guess.  A level 4 on two copies of the exact same trainer might be off by 40w from each other.   It’s a cable actuated system, and the adjustment mechanisms are plastic and cables stretch.

I can tell you that we don’t use any manufacturers published curves, the numbers Zwift calculates are based on data from testing here with an actual unit and a power meter.



(Jay Queue [BZR]) #3


Thanks for your answer. I’ll have to look deep into the eyes of the misses and then softly whisper ‘I need a power meter’. 

Btw, Blue Matic is L3 not L4 - right?


(#) #4

Does any one have the power curve for Blue Matic in xls or file text?


(Jose Montero) #5

Hi guys, 

Im using the blue matic also, but i can’t reach the watts zwift is asking me, not even a 136 RPM can’t get to 400W, I don’t understand what is wrong, the trainer is in the indicated resistance. What can it be??




(Jose Montero) #6

Still wating for an answer!!!


(Emilson Reguyal) #7


Any updates? L3 or L4 for Tacx Blue matic trainers? Thank you!


(Jose Montero) #8

The knowledge database here says L3… lets see how it goes 


(Danny Builth-Snoad) #9

I’m having exactly the same issue which is pretty frustrating as it really reduces the zwift experience. If you have a look at the power curves for the Blue Motion, by calibrating it using setting 3 we’re never going to be able to generate more than 400w in Zwift.



If they were to recalibrate the trainer curve for Zwift at say a setting of 8 we’d be able to get double that which would just fine. Zwift, is there any chance of doing that; to put a different power curve in for that model using a higher setting? I’d hope it’s simple to do and would make the experience a lot better for a number of customers 

Cheers, Danny 


(Tim James lionrockcycling) #10


I have a Powertap running through ANT+ in Zwift on a Cyclops Fluid 2.  I have run a comparison test on the Tacx Blue Matic as my girlfriend has one.  

I linked the Powertap to my Garmin Edge 500 and put the Garmin speed/cadence censor linked to Zwift. 

Changing wheel tension and settings on the Blue Matic I found that in setting 1 with very low tension on the wheel was giving me very close numbers at about 140 watts only out by 5/10 watts.  It seemed to drift apart a little more when pushing higher watts, say around 220/240 I must admit I didn’t check speed in Zwift as I find if off anyway.  Also I haven’t checked tyre pressure.  This would have to be done again to get feedback.

Don’t know if anyone else has tried this or can give some feedback??

Cheers,  Tim James-lionrockcycling



(Danny Builth-Snoad) #11

Hi Tim

Interesting to hear the on level 1 it’s measuring close to actual, I wonder what that means on level 3 which is the official setting it’s meant to be. Any chance you’d be able to do a test with the trainer on 3 to see how far out/close the zwift reported power will be to the Powertap reported outpput?





(A ndy Murray IRL) #12

I’ve been trying to use my tacx blue matic smart with zwift for the last week.  i get everything connected, start the ride and one minute later i come to a stand still with my power and cadence droping to zero.  I get off, check the sensors are ok and in the correct position, make sure everything is as close as possible, start again, peddle a short while and again power and cadence drop to zero, after a few seconds it comes back, peddle for a minute and its gone again.  It’s dropped out 10 times in 10 minutes of riding.  very frustrating, i don’t know what i’m doing wrong or how i can stabilize the connection.

The best i have managed is a 38 minute ride with about 6 connection drop outs.




(Danny Builth-Snoad) #13

Are you using bluetooth sensors via the comanion app to a PC, BT sensors on the IOS app, or ANT+ on the PC? I experience occasional dropouts on the sensors when using the companion app to relay BT to the PC and it seems to be down to network strength. As a test you might try setting up really close to your WiFi router and see if that helps.


(Andreas Refanidis) #14


please excuse me if this is not the correct place for the following question.

Can i fit the Tacx 23c training tire on a 25 wheel? If yes, will this cause any troubles on the virtual power and Zwift? 


Thanks in advance.


(Steffan James) #15

Hi guys I’ve recently bought a Tacx blue matic turbo trainer. Had everything set up for me by a friend who’s really into his cycling. Speed/cadence is fine but I’m not getting any Wattage output what so ever. This means that my avatar is stood still no matter how fast I go.


Any ideas? This is also the same when I try the tacx app.


(Paul) #16


Let’s stick to one thread.

No you are giving conflicting reports.

Is the Tacx app showing speed?

I have been using Zwift for over 2 years and started on zPower just like you and moved to a trainer that broadcast watts and now I have a power meter. Over that time I have helped MANY people get up and running on Zwift on these forums.


(John Jorgensen) #17

I’m going insane with this one. I have a Tacx Matic Smart. Sensors work fine with Tacx basic app on my android smartphone. Using bluetooth.
To use Zwift I have a Windows tablet, I have downloaded the Zwift app. It will not pair, doesnt even see the Tacx device.
I have ensured phone Bluetooth is off, and that Tacx device is active.
I have then also downloaded the Zwift android app to my phone, again it doesnt have a pairing option, just a bluetooth
sign (no devices showing).


(Paul) #18


Turn Bluetooth back on for the phone, make sure that the trainer is not connected to any other device or app (including the phone), make sure that the phone and the tablet are on the same network, and then the Zwift Mobile Link should bridge the Bluetooth connection to the Windows Tablet.


(John Jorgensen) #19

Hi Paul
Thanks for your advice. Doing that did get the zwift app to recognise a bluetooth connection, but the app still wouldn’t pair to the sensors.
I don’t understand the Mobile Link tbh, if I have a bluetooth tablet with zwift on it, albeit on crappy Win10 OS, why the phone necessity?


(Alex Bogges) #20

Can any one shed any light on the change needed for the Tacx Matic?
I have also just done an FTP test on it and I spent the 20mins in 53-11 @ 100+ rpm. No where near enough resistance in ‘level 3’ for a valid result.
I am new to zwift and like it so far, but it will be much better if the starting point and the riders FTP test is valid.
There should be an option of two or three calibrated curves for levels 3 & 5 and even 6/7?