Setting to reduce your Spinning bike Watts output to Zwift

Hi, It’s pretty well known and documented that some of us using Spinning bikes instead of start trainers (I’m using a Schwinn IC8) have over reported wattage and it inflates our FTP and is like cheating the system even if we don’t want to.

As an example, in my 2 rides so far in Zwift, my FTP is 235 and I have peaks of 400 and muy real road FTP is more around 130 or so (by Strava on real rides). By now I have decided to not to join any event or race, as I would be cheating, so I only ride alone and try to improve my FTP over that 235, as even knowing it’s fake, it’s a reference point for me to improve. to compensate it a bit, I have bumped my weight in Zwift to 100kg so my watts per K is lower and the result speed is lower but that helps with reducing my speed only, not FTP.

Another problem is that export from Zwift to Garmin and Strava, it’s messing my stats and PR there.

I have of course contacted Schwinn as many others and they are aware of the problem, but it’s not the only manufacturer with that issue for what I read in the forums, facebook and fan sites.

Can’t you guys just add a setting in the profile or pairing area where we can just define in % the reduction to be applied to our bike output? like we set -50% and for whatever output that our bike is giving to Zwift, you reduce it by 50%.

That would be a really easy fix for any brand of bike. You have a value to apply to the bike output in real time as modifier and that will solve our problem of over reporting so we can compete with others on real conditions without feeling cheaters and it won’t mess our real data.

Of course that modifier can only be used to lower your bike output, never to raise it, to avoid cheaters.

Hope it can be implemented, it should be an easy way to fix a big problem for Spinning bikes owners who want to compete on a fair environment without having to expend 500-1000€ extra on power pedals like Garmin or Assioma that is what I’m considering right now but that doubles my bike price.

I’m not an IC8 owner but was looking at getting one for a while so heard about the wattage issues. Have you tried recalibrating it? I can’t post links but if you search for ‘ic8 calibration instructions’ in the forums then there are some instructions.

Calibration won’t work because it doesn’t have a real power meter on it. Adding a function to lower the wattage arbitrarily would also be pointless for Zwift programmers because the device is does not accurately measure power output no matter what anyone does. You could potentially buy power meter pedals but after adding up all the cost you could just buy a real direct drive smart trainer and a cheap bike and actually enjoy all Zwift has to offer.