I don’t think that any European court would argue in that direction. If Schwinn IC8 users get banned from races due to Schwinn bikes delivering faulty values to Zwift, the bike is by no means compatible with the Zwift platform (which includes races). Schwinn will need to compensate users that have been mislead by their advertising imho.
Wow that is unfortunate, I suppose I’ll get a power meter. Which one are you using for the video?
Is the bike compatible with any crank type power meters or just pedals?
Garmin Vector 3
I would say that pedals are the only way with this type of bike. But I am not sure about that.
I bought my bike a few days ago from ■■■■’s and I’m new to Zwift. Still trying to figure out how to “optimally” actually use Zwift in combination with the IC4. Now I just wanted to add one thing to the conversation: according to the Kinetic app, my console has firmware v1.3 191111 (and a QC3 sticker), which is even newer than posted above (fun fact, only the iOS version of the kinetic app shows this debugging information).
I think the numbers I get in zwift are realistic-ish if I compare with the Strava (estimated) power curve. What would be a good way to sanity check things without buying fancy pedals? Take the FTP test and see that I’m getting close to normal-for-me numbers (~200)? I don’t anticipate ever participating in any races, just figured I’d offer debug things with my presumably-new console.
FWIW: my bike, as it came from the store, is calibrated such that it reaches level 100 and then I can still do a few more turns of the knob. Don’t know if I should really futz around with re-calibrating – are there general tips on what speed one should get at a given rpm/level?
Yes there supposedly is. Go to Facebook, find and join the schwinn ic4 and bowflex c6 riders group. Look under the files content.
Thanks! I ended up re-calibrating the bike according to the official pdf. My speed/rpms match that FB group guidelines and I just did the zwift ramp test and got 186 FTP which seems about in line with my abilities. Doing 260W for more than a minute was painful for me, so I think I won’t be winning any zwift races anytime soon; the upside is that I don’t think I’m breaking the spirit of the game by using my bike since the power reported in Zwift appears not inflated.
I’m runing the same firmware on a Bowflex C6 and am experiencing the same realistic numbers on mine.
I’ll be getting power pedals eventually to compare. Not knowing if the numbers are accurate or not is always going to bug me.
Would you be able to check the firmware number on the new console you received? Using the Kinetic app. That might clear things up for us, if you have the same firmware then we know the numbers still aren’t right, older firmware then maybe something is wrong and they sent the wrong console. I and one of the other posters are running v1.3 191111
Did you end up calibrating your bike as well? I found that my bike, as shipped, was not well-calibrated (I could do 3-4 more complete turns after the console hit 100). Once I re-calibrated the resistance sensor such that I can only turn very little after hitting 100, the numbers that I get on Zwift are way more believable. This makes sense that I was getting perhaps optimistic numbers before (since I was able to hit resistance/level=50 very easily).
Curious if like Andres and me, you have v1.3 191111 console.
I checked my bike and found that it was calibrated similarly to yours from the factory… which is as we know, incorrect according to the calibration procedures in the service manual.
My numbers dropped about ~10-20watts in Zwift for the same pedaling effort. They really should have calibrated these properly at the factory. I can’t imagine most people bothering with calibrating or worrying about numbers IMO.
I do think it’s possible that they were not off as much to begin with due to the firmware but that’s speculation. Certainly not wildly passing other users with exaggerated wattage that I’ve read some users report.