we’re not talking about power readings, we’re talking about after calibration speed and distance being wrong. Nautilus is saying that 50rpm 0 resistance our speed should be 9kph but we’re at 13kph for example.
Nothing about them will be accurate though with respect to power or speed. I regularly warn people not to purchase a spin bike for use with Zwift or any other cycling app because they are not able to to use the app as they are supposed to be used. People lose out on ERG mode and the immersion you get on a free ride with a good controllable smart trainer, plus being able to track ones fitness accurately. Some people don’t care about any of that and that’s fine too, but worrying about speed and power is pointless at that point.
Maybe get some power pedals for accurate power and speed.
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again you’re not actually reading the context of the exchange between Andrew and I, Schwinn/Nautilus is telling us that the Cadence/Resistance calculation for distance/speed should be X and but we’re getting Y from the provided bike computer, this has nothing to do with Zwift or any cycling app.
@AaronGT’s observation, if I may, is no matter what Schwinn tells you, the only way to be sure and accurate is to test it with a good, proven power meter.
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I like to keep things simple and to me it just seems to easy to just adjust your weight in the Zwift app up or down to get your more realistic numbers. All of this talk about calibration and replacing control modules just gives me a headache. I understand some people are way more detail oriented then myself but this is just a simple fix that works for me. Good luck.
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I have been riding my ic4 with Zwift for a month now. I am really enjoying it while getting terrific workouts! I confess to entering a “beginners” race with THE HERD, for E level. I did not realize at the time that I had an advantage…but considering my 10th place finish I figured something was up. (I did get a great workout, however). I promise not to enter races in the future. I used a few weeks of the FTP Builder. Good work out, but I found the live group workout rides to be more fun. I discovered that if you get too far out in front it is hard, if not impossible, to rejoin the pack. I did find out on the “supper club ride” that if you don’t mind the red fence you end up lost forever. I discovered that by exiting and re-entering I was able to rejoin the pack. I’m learning the etiquette slowly and am enjoying the ride. I am considering putting an “IC 4” after my name to alert others that my power numbers are out of whack. It’s a cool app and wonderful community. See you out there. I’d be interested in a Bowflex/Schwinn community, too.
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Anyone have an update on recent IC4’s? Have they been fixed to accurately measure power being sent to Zwift?
Bought one this Dec 2020, given the computer/software at least a few months old sitting in the box, maybe.
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You will never get accurate data from that device since it does not have a real power meter in it. You could invest in power pedals but it still won’t be controllable.
I actually just finally was able to get a full refund on my Schwin IC4. The bike not only doesn’t work with Zwift as its advertised to do, but it also wasn’t calibrated properly according to what their manual said should be reading on the power meter. After going through multiple parts and their employees installing the parts on my bike I finally was able to get them to refund it. They even let me keep the bike still lol.
As Fez has stated multiple times, this bike does not have a real power meter. If you are thinking about purchasing this bike for Zwift, just don’t. Unless you don’t care about accuracy. I ended up just picking up a StagesSB20 as they recently came back in stock.
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Trying to fit the need for 2 adults and 2 children to ride at home and get exercise on one bike, so trying the IC4. And not trying to go for big spend.
Noted the IC4 does not translate power nor adjusted tension.
With power pedals added, would those values being sent to Zwift be accurate in terms of power wattage to your rider and be on a ~fair playing field as with direct drive riders?
Given the IC4 rider needs to manually adjust the tension to then be able to push more wattage into the ride, hence Zwift?
Yes, a good set of power pedals would give you accurate numbers.
Anyone successful in swapping out a crank arm for one that can support a power meter (like tempo)?
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Hey Andrew, we’re you in the 6 week window for refunds? I’m having issues with my console and flywheel. The replacement parts they sent me were defective, and at this point the bike has been broken for longer than it’s worked. But Nautilus is really giving me a tough time with the refund.
I was not in the 6 week refund window for refunds. I also bought it from Best Buy so the refund I received I lost out on taxes on the purchase but it was still worth it. Were you the one that put the replacement parts on the bike or did you have their service guys come out and replace the parts? I made sure to let only them touch the bike.
After the service guys came and replaced by speed sensor they had zero idea what they were doing and screwed up the resistance knob entirely so I had a lot of ammo to complain about. Also one of the parts they suggested next to replace for me wouldn’t have been available until March (it was like Nov/Dec at the time). I just kept being stern and saying it is false advertising on Nautilus’s part since this bike doesn’t exactly work for Zwift since numerous complaints of faulty power readings.
Let me know if I can help anymore. If you replaced those parts though I think you might have a more difficult time in getting a refund.
Thanks a ton Andrew that really helps. I did have them send out a tech to service the bike. Unfortunately the initial problem still hasn’t been solved, and now my resistance is also completely messed up. I will be sure to mention Zwift as well when their Support lines are open again tomorrow.
Also sorry, did you go through BestBuy for the refund or Nautilus?
Sorry I should’ve made that more clear. I got the refund from Nautilus even though I bought from Best Buy. It was outside of Best Buy’s return window as well.
Another piece of ammo I had was that my bike wasn’t calibrated at all even on the IC4’s power meter after the new parts and me re-calibrating the max amount. Reference the picture that’s posted earlier this thread on saying that when you set resistance to zero and pedal at 50 RPM then bike should say 5 MPH, and if you set resistance to 25 and pedal at 75 RPM then should read 23 MPH.
No worries and thanks for clarifying. I will definitely be pursuing a refund. I appreciate the info!
Just had my IC8 (IC4) arrive and the iPad holder angle seems very flat. Has anyone found a way to increase the angle so that the iPad faces more towards you? Before anyone says, I know it’s not adjustable, I’m looking for a DIY workaround. Cheers!
Yep, I bought the Favero Assioma pedals to use with my IC4 so I could know for certain that my power was accurate and enjoy the experience on Zwift knowing I wasn’t “cheating.” I also plan to use them on my new outdoor bike as well, so totally worth the cost IMO.
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