Kickr Snap suddenly drastically different in power after calibration?

I’ll give it a try

The last firmware update offered on Wahoo site is from 2018.

Hey Guys,

maybe the spindown isnt done correctly. Maybe this video helps you.
I cant post URLs/Links so i put a blank in https.

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The Guide is from the official wahoo site.

[KICKR SNAP Smart Trainer Setup & Instructions | Wahoo Fitness EU]
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Best regards

I too have an issue with baseline resistance too low on my Kickr core. How exactly do i reduce the spin down time? where’s the “knob” I think i saw you write about? thanks.

The Core is a direct drive trainer. The SNAP is a wheel-on trainer, and has a knob to adjust the tension of the roller against the tire. No such option on the Core. Perhaps someone who has a Core can help you out with adjusting the baseline resistance/spin-down time.

Struggling too here with the watts on my new Wahoo Snap much lower and inconsistent than they should be.

At least 50w lower as far as I can tell and when trying to keep a steady pace it will just drop.

I have done the factory calibration several times, reset the bluetooth, trainer difficulty down on Zwift, tyre PSI high as it can go. Bought a cadence sensor just in case but didn’t do anything.

Any other options left?

Make sure to do the spin down in wahoo app and not zwift.

You want to get the spin down time to 10 seconds. If it is less than 10 seconds, turn the knob counter clockwise for less resistance or tighter if the time is over 10 seconds.

Perform the spin down after 10mins cycling to ensure its warmed up.

Thanks Mike. Tried all that several times now, not matter how tight I turn the knob the first spindown time won’t get below 13 seconds.

The acceptable range is 10-15 seconds according to Wahoo.

Looking at your screenshot, your second spindown was 7.4 seconds so you’ll want to loosen off the blue knob a bit.

Not sure why your power is drastically different though? If your tyre slipping at all? Brakes contacting the rim? I’ve found with a trainer tyre my watts are much more consistent now.

When you say if drops over time, do you mean in the first 10 seconds of cycling or more gradually? When I start cycling, my watts will be around 400w for a few seconds before settling in at around 220w or so.

Did try and loosen the knob but then the first spindown goes to 16 seconds and the second goes to 10 seconds, not sure which spindown is more important or if it takes an average of the two?

If I am doing a steady acceleration up to 200w and maintain that pace it will just drop down within a few seconds to 180 160 120 without changing my cadence. It’s hard to maintain any steady power at all without the watts on the screen jumping all over the place.

Tried it on a few different Android phones and a (quite old) Mac laptop, still the same.

Just bought a new iPad for it and everything now works perfectly! An expensive fix but was driving me mad so had to be done.

Wow so strange that was the fix!

Next I was going to suggest an advanced spindown with Wahoo. You can lookup the instructions but it’s supposed to be more accurate

Yea I was only doing the advanced factory spindowns through the hidden option on the Android phone.

Funnily enough doing the advanced spindown via the iPad the results are pretty much the same.

I am using a large mountain bike with 700x32 wheel though so have always thought that might make a difference.

I have the same issue, I contacted Wahoo and they replaced my unit, but the new one is doing the same.

I have done spindowns both normal and advanced, tried different devices, downgraded software, changed all settings related to the issue, tried a different bike, uninstalled and reinstalled Zwift and Wahoo Fitness app but with no luck. Please let me know @mj101 if you figured out how to fix this.

Also I had a friend spin on mine, and he instantly said something is wrong. I then spinned on his kickr core and could feel the massive difference.

I bought an iPad, that fixed it straight away for me!

Most expensive fix ever but at least I can finally race my friends again.

Have seen a few people have a loose nut inside the cap on the left hand hinge which was causing low watts. Also if you look inside the flywheel there is a small white sticker, some people have had this fall off which means the light sensor inside doesn’t work properly.

Search for “Hambini wahoo snap spike fix”

Those spindown times are completely normal when doing a Factory Spindown, nothing wrong here …

I’m having the same issue but on an Elite Direto. After calibration, the resistance is so hard in Zwift that I can hardly pedal in my easiest gear… It’s a total bummer and I can’t figure it out. I have tried re-calibrating through Zwift, through the Elite app, waiting a day and doing it all again. I’m only 106 pounds wet and not super strong to begin with, so it’s really depressing to get on the bike and not even be able to move…

This thread just keeps going and going. I gotta tell all you Snap users though, your Kickr Snap lies to you. I have heard some (very most likely) delusional numbers from some folks on here.

I have a 4iiii power meter on my bike and a Tacx Neo 2t trainer now. My Tacx Neo says my FTP is about 250. My FTP on my Kickr went as high as 350 at one point. That’s, like, pro status. There is just no way I was ever that strong.

My 4iiii does seem more generous to me than my Neo 2t. Drivetrain loss? I had a ride not too long ago that was a quick 50 mins, about 15 miles and 700 ft of climbing on very rough tarmac and dirt roads when my real average (zeros included) was about 230 watts. I did 18.3 avg and picked up several cups.

I’m sorry, but Zwift racing is silly and most people’s numbers are just not to be believed.

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Timothy - I’ve owned a Kickr Snap for 4 years. It has never calibrated properly no matter how often I’ve performed a Spindown or even a factory Spindown. My ownership experience with a Snap, a Tickr, a Cadence Sensor aned the Wahoo app has me resigned to the fact that Wahoo makes garbage, plain and simple.