Kickr Power Drop.

(Samir Shukurov) #41

Thanks Jake. What would be the best solution for Bluetooth users then? Shall I switch to Ant+? Or may be it will be better after a few rides?


(Jake Sigal ( #42

Hi Samir,

I would strongly recommend using ANT+ with the FE-C option. It’s just a lot more stable that bluetooth. If you do this get the ant+ dongle and a USB extension cable (super affordable) so your dongle can be next to the KICKR. Signal drops will be a thing of the past.

Bluetooth5 software (and firmware updates) will fix a lot of these shortcomings but will be a year or two before that’s available. Bluetooth5 (or BT5) supports about 5X the range at the data rates required for Zwift connectivity and helps a lot with multiple devices. There is a ton of packet loss happening currently over BT4 in the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz space in homes.


(Jason Wright (ATX)) #43

I did this as well and still had 5 significant (enough to cause a rating drop on a workout) drops and a few minor ones.  This all with FE-C on, USB extension and all.  Still frustrating to no end.   


(Derek Lawrie) #44

Hi Jason,

Have you tried using Zwiftalizer to analyse the logs form your session? (I can’t remember the URL, but if you Google it you’ll find it).

This won’t fix anything, but it will help you ascertain whether signal quality is a contributory factor (this is one of the things it analyses) once and for all.

I used to have terrible ANT+ issues, I made a number of changes…
Moving laptop closer to bike.
WiFi router channel. change.
SONOS channel change.
Moved my fan so it is not between the bike and the laptop.
I no longer broadcast music from my phone to my Bluetooth speakers when training.
REMOVED my USB extension cable … it was making things worse for me, according to Zwiftaliser. (2M… maybe too long?)

It will also tell you if your laptop is struggling (I’m not sure whether this can impact or not… but a struggling laptop can’t help… and my drops were significantly worse during large busy group rides) . I’ve since dropped the resolution on mine.

I now get a much better experience, I truly believe it to be a combination of the above, I can’t pinpoint any particular change … other than removing the USB cable.

Also … do you get the drops when using your Garmin? or Sufferfest or BigRing VR etc? I have always found Zwift to be the flakiest of them all.

Good luck, you WILL get it sorted.



(Gregor Vand (B)) #45

thanks Maggie KEAN ZSUN ©!

switching to that mode (ie not using ANT+ for the trainer connection) has given me the first ride free of power drops in months (using a Kickr Snap)


(Eirik Jacobsen) #46

Suffered from severe drop outs using ANT+. Tried it all, including active USB cable. That helped a little bit, (from 60 drop outs per hour to 30). Racing was a nightmare, group rides ok.

Changed to bluetooth - problem solved, not a single drop out. Hope this can be a helpful experience to others?


(Tiago DeOliveira) #47

I have always had drops, though they are really starting to get frustrating as I am now doing more workouts. I get the drops on ant+, ant+ FEC, and bluetooth. It seems somewhat random as some days will be worse than others regardless of which way I am connecting. Running on a desktop PC that is wired to the router which in turn is wired to modem. No power saving features enabled on PC (usb hubs etc). Usb extension cable in use with dongle sitting next the kickr flywheel. The fan is on opposite right side of desk while pc is on floor to left so not in the way but I’ve also tried riding with the fan off (quite miserable) and still had drops. I have eliminated the wireless keyboard and any other wireless usb connectors on pc. I’ve tried changing the 2.4ghz channels. I’ve tried turning off the 2.4ghz wireless radio in the router. I’ve tried putting my phone on airplane mode when not using the bluetooth connection. Kickr firmware is up to date. Nothing really seems to work.

The drops are power only, as cadence and heart rate don’t seem to lose signal.

There are very few things left for me to test, but today I’ll try putting the bike with the power meter on the trainer instead of the dedicated trainer bike and use the power meter for power and see if I get drops there. Will also test the kickr using the wahoo app and see if that gives me power drops.


So last night I rode for about 10 minutes using the bikes power meter (ant+) without any power drops. Unfortunately the bike with the power meter isn’t the one that is on the trainer by default. Also, when using the bikes power meter in workout mode even with the kickr selected under controllable trainer, resistance isn’t automatically adjusted (seems to only work when you have the kickr selected for both power and controllable trainer) so this doesn’t even work as a temporary solution until riding fully transitions to outdoors. Really pissed off with this whole situation right now.

1 Like

(Matt Gilly) #48

Was also having drop out issues … saw I had not paired Kickr on FEC version, so re-paired on FEC version. Also used an extension USB cable for the ANT+ dongle - net result was first ride in a while with no power drop outs. Made the group ride less exciting as was getting used the to random dropping off the back and having to catch-up!.