The fixes described by other user seem to be random
My neo was 3 years old and i gave it to my wife, thats ok with her watts
I ordered the zwift trainer and will use my cube racebike that is left over since i bought the new tarmac SL8 
I have very similar shifting problems in my Kickr Bike. First purchased in 2021, shifter freezing in mid-ride started in October 2023. None of the four handlebar assemblies that Wahoo sent fixed the problem and Wahoo finally sent a new bike in November 2023. Now less than one year later, the same problem is starting up again. Obviously they are not fixing the problem or at least they are not fixing it on v1. Does anybody know if they have fixed it on v2?
I havenāt contacted customer service yet, but will do so later today.
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This issue fascinates me, I have 50,000 miles/80,500km on my KICKR Bike (per Strava) since late March 2021 and I havenāt encountered any problems with my shifter assembly. The only thing that happened to my bike is one of the quick release levers broke (thankfully it is just me using the bike) for the saddle adjustment and I replaced the bottom bracket once about 2 months ago. It was like gravel rust but still turned!
This seems to hit the same users multiple times or not at all.
My questions that I have, thinking aloud - most of my rides have been Z1/Z2 endurance rides, but not that sweaty. If yours are, is there a chance youāre draping a towel over the handlebar assembly or something?
The connectors are recessed and splash resistant, but I can see how a potential failure could occur if a towel is draped around the handlebars and the moisture chases the connectors or evaporates upward into the assembly.
Thinking aloud, I wonder if (presuming you get a replacement sorted) dielectric grease āblobbedā up around the wires underneath the module might mitigate the problem. Thatās really the only potential source of failure for this as far as sweat ingress.
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You were thinking aloud, I am laughing aloudā¦ Itās perplexing to see people investing $3k in a bicycle yet hesitate to spend at least 300 bucks on a dehumidifier, and some climate control.
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Since the rubber covers over the shifters on mine have massively stretched over time - I reached out to Wahoo with photos and explanation. Despite my bike being heavily used (but very well looked after) they are sending me a replacement set.
Iāve already replaced the bars with my own FSA ones of correct width and better shape. Good outcome.
Iām next thinking to replace the bottom bracket. I believe this should be appropriate:
Has anyone here done the replacement?
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Well I shouldnāt have said anything more about the Kickr bike and going quite well, because the seat post clamp on mine has broken clean away from the base!
The bike can still be used, Iāve dropped the seat post slightly for safety and Iām just careful not to move too much. Iāll contact Wahoo and see if they can send a replacement for that whole seat post assembly, which I suppose is a big part.
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Any thoughts on how to remove this bolt?
It should turn anti-clockwise and does, but keeps spinning and doesnāt come loose, leaving me to think that whatever it is connecting into is also spinning freely, so no way to get it out.
Edit: Got the bolt out. It was needed to leave the locking lever partly closed and then the screw could be undone.
Edit 2: When replacing the seat-post unit, be careful of the following:
- When removing the bolt for the clamping lever (photo above), be aware that the retaining mechanism is not secure inside, it is simply jammed in between the sliding seat-post assembly and the frameā¦
Be certain to secure that retaining mechanism otherwise it will fall down into the Kickr Bike frame when you slide out the seat post assembly. - Once you have properly secured that mechanism, you can undo the retaining bolt for the seat post assembly and remove the seat post assembly out.
- Now you can slide in the new one, then re-assemble everything.
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Glad I found this old thread! My Kickr Bike V1 started showing ER17 and when I took the cover off and looked at my fan it was indeed not running despite getting 48V power and the PWM signal. The fan blades also showed slight deformation. The voltages were consistent every time I powered up the bike, and PWM started ramping up when I started to pedal. Given the symptoms I figured the bike should be fixable by simply installing a new fan. At least it would be cheap to try, and faster than shipping the out-of-warranty bike to Wahoo provided the fix works. Unfortunately I couldnāt source a 48V fan with a PWM input so ended up putting a 24V 4-wire (the RPM feedback goes unused) fan in and feeding it off of a 48V to 24V 1A DC DC buck converter. Based on a few uphill sprints the fan seems to be ramping up and down as expected so I made the final connections and was able to fit the voltage converter under the cover. Fingers crossed it will stay this way!
q
The 24V replacement fan.
Test hookup with a 48V-24V buck inline.
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Cheers - that is useful information on the fan. My kickr bike is really getting on in age.
What was the original fan type and model number?
The original is D-Fan DFH9733B. Their website has the specs for the 12V and 24V variants. Couldnāt find the 48V version anywhere and they didnāt respond to my enquiry so I grabbed the first 24V fan I came across on Amazon. The Wathai 24V fan has higher power consumption (18W vs. 12W for the original) so I should really look for a better replacement now that I know itās just the fan that was busted. Wathai goes to 4800 RPM @ 59.5 dBa so itās pushing a lot more air and is definitely noisier at full tilt and could be pushing the power supply too much. DC-DC conversion is also not 100% efficient obviously. I figure this is fine for easier rides for now though.
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Hi everyone, have been lurking here for a while and thought Iād see how many of us have Er 9 impacted Kickr Bikes? Mine is a V1 and I picked it up as a discarded bike which had already been through the warranty process. You can see from the photo that I have the main board and the sub board out of the bike which helps with bench testing. So set up like you see it in the pic, I get Er 9 on known working shifter. Iāve had the connectors replaced on the sub board and some heat applied to ensure no dry joints. I donāt seem to have any voltage at the USB port so will be looking into that next. Any info, feedback and hopefully fixes would be appreciated! Trying to keep this bike away from the trash heap.
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