Shuji from Zwift HQ here. While it’s not difficult for someone who’s confident in their bike mechanic skills, we still stand by our recommendation for most Zwifters to take it a shop and pay for professional installation, rather than buy a single-task tool that you might only need once.
Your video glosses over the need to use the correct type of crank puller tool. The end of the tool that makes contact with the end of the bottom bracket spindle - this part here you show in your video - should not be for a larger diameter splined pipe type of spindle (e.g. Octalink or ISIS bottom brackets)
Some crank pullers are sold with both types of ends as part of the design, other pullers are sold specifically to fit square taper spindle or pipe spindle. The person working on the bike should determine that the tip of the tool contacts only the end of the spindle and not the crankarm.
This distinction is important to be aware of or you can strip out the aluminum threads on the original 170 mm crankarms. Should that happen, you’ve unknowingly created a much bigger (more expensive) task to remove the crank. This is why we put these two Q&A’s in the announcement post I linked above.
Thank you also for showing a torque wrench set to 45 Nm, that is quite important. If you’re freehanding it - you should check the bolt after the first ride as the crank may have loosened on the steel taper. If you continue riding long-term with a loose crankarm - you will ovalize the square hole and you’ll never be able to re-tighten the crank fully.
Now that I’ve explicitly called out these risks - does it make sense why we recommend professional installation?