Final Word on Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+

(Paul Hoyland) #21

I am so glad i’ve found this post, i suspect for a while I wasn’t getting a correct measurement as I’d been on a wattbike and got a reasonably higher power output. I also was finding everyone was passing me when i was going flat out!! I guess i’m only using it to keep me going over winter and my FTP is measured on this so any workout is measured against it so theoretically i’m working out at a correct level… my output just seemed loads lower than other people i know use it and i’m at a similar level to. 


(Paul Hoyland) #22

Steve where did you get the updated numbers from if you don’t have a power meter?

(John) #23

Some great calibration info here:

(Paul Hoyland) #24

Thanks, I did start looking at that the other day but glanced over it really.

I too do not have a power meter so i’m goona go by feel, i’m having the exact same issues as the original poster, gonna bump it up 30 and see how it feels, if i can’t get anywhere I’ll reset them and i’ll just have to grin and bear it.


Thanks for the link John.

(Julian Selmes Buffalo) #25

@johnfarr has linked to the best explanation for the QESB+ above. If you take time to learn how the trainer software works you will get the most out of it.

It is a fantastic interactive trainer but needs some effort to get it running well. People who have complained above don’t seem to have understood that unlike a lot of smart trainers you can actually get your hands on the power curve mapped inside the trainer! Granted like any other power meter it needs to be calibrated. See if you can borrow a friend’s power meter pedal. Or ride a friend’s calibrated trainer and see what value watts you put out: for the P3, ride at 24mph/40kph on a zero gradient. For the P2, ride 18mph/30kph on a 5% grad. For the P1, 12mph/20kph on 10% grad. You will see where you input the values in the MyETraining software that came with the trainer. @SteveRicketts explains it well further back in this thread…

The factory settings are P1 171, P2 186 and P3 155.

After gradual adjustments to the values from I have found that for me, male, 5ft 10in, 160lbs (72.5kg) with fitness level from riding approx 4000 miles with 123,000 ft of climbing (in the real world in the last year) my values are:

P1 185

P2 195

P1 155

I’ve made them stand out because I know a lot of people will want to just scroll down and grab them, being too lazy to do what I did and follow the’s advised and start with his figures and then gradually adjust them 30-watts at a time until they start to feel realistic.  Then I adjusted in 10-watt increments before switching to 5-watt adjustments, which I was amazed that this too made a noticeable difference. (Sorry I come from a scientific background and can get a bit obsessed!)

I deleted each test ride from Zwift because when I first started with his figures I was flying uphill and banging out some big max power, all of which I’ll never match or beat and so are of no use me in terms of representing my PR’s.

Now when I ride with my road club riders on Zwift, we are quite well matched as we are in the real world, where we fall positionally on a long climb, fast-flat rides or cheeky sprint battles. Well, there is a guy who’s always behind me on the road but who always beats me on Zwift but that’s human nature…  ;) 

It is mooted above in threads about this trainer overstating the power compared to Zwift and how rubbish that is. As far as I’m concerned it makes for better training and when I race on the road in the spring it is going to pay dividends!

NOTE: The Elite documentation is the worst of any product that I have ever bought.  There is no manual, printed or on-line. The software is as attractive as a dos based program from the 90’s! If you want ANY information you have to email them and wait days for a reply. Very poor in this day and age.

(Paul Hoyland) #26

i’ve spend all evening trying to update the values and it doesn’ seem to be doing it, i’m putting the values in, tried app/desktop app and the flash windows thing and everytime i do it the values remain the same as they were before - so factory settings. Anyone any ideas??

(Julian Selmes Buffalo) #27

Do you think it’s not updating because the values in the P1, P2, P3 window on the Settings page of the MyETraining program shows the same original values? I emailed Elite and they said that the values that have gone to the trainer are not shown here in the program. Crazy isn’t it?! So put your new values, pedal when prompted and it will put them into the trainer. May take a couple of goes. Keep your eyes on the screen afterwards. Look out for a tiny error message that just flashes up for a second (another poor bit of design) if it has failed to transfer. Why not make it stay on screen and bigger? I can’t be the only person who has their computer on a bench in front of their bike; at least 2m from me when I’m sat on the bike doing the pedalling it asks for…) After all it’s vital that you know it’s not transferred. Generally it takes 3 goes to take some days and just once others. Flakey tech!

(Paul Hoyland) #28

It’s not the best is it. It’s flashing up saying theres a problem with ANT, however the trainers linked to zwift perfect. I did it on the desktop app and it seems to have held, had a quick blast before the daily madness began, think it feels beeter, probably have to have a proper go to be sure and then have a faff with it.

The software is frustrating to say the least, however, as i said previously it doesn’t matter what it says the wattage is I guess, I know how much i’m pushing myself so I judge it by that. We’ll see!

Dorking CC, I get down to work in Dorking every now and again, not had chance to look in that little red bike shop yet, or get my bike there either, maybe next visit.

(Julian Selmes Buffalo) #29

Paul I use Bluetooth so can’t comment about Ant+. If you have the choice try Bluetooth. Yes, the Trainer/Zwift connection has always been good. You are right that the values may not be absolute but we need them to be realistic so this faffing is worth it!

Heads for the Hills is the bike shop. Very good people in there. True cyclists struggling to compete with on line sites and Amazon. Good mechanics and happy to fit stuff you source cheaper online; being realistic! Drop off for the fantastic local Carbon Bike Repair company too. Best coffee in Dorking Deli or Too Many Cooks. Ride on (safely if it’s on road!)

(Joe Bike Centric Joe) #30

Julian - I’m trying your method to get my power numbers (riding a calibrated trainer). How many minutes should I ride at the different slopes to get the numbers and is the number your average from the effort? Thanks!

(Julian Selmes Buffalo) #31

Hi Joe, Not very scientific but I did each three times and averaged. I found P3 was constant so easy to just use the value. P1 was hard! It was a case of pushing until the speed hit the right value and noting the power, not holding it for any great length of time! Zwift has good constant slopes for test runs on. P2 was a bit easier and only varied 5w over all three “runs.” Hope this helps. And doesn’t expose me as a charlatan!

(A Myller @MoodCycling) #32

Just buy a power meter, calibrate your trainer, return it if you cant afford to keep it. DONE! Amazon is your friend. 

(Joe Bike Centric Joe) #33

Thanks! Doing it tonight. BTW, my first ride on the trainer with the factory numbers wasn’t too bad but way below the numbers I get on my Vortex. I bought the ELITE for my wife but wanted to see how it felt. Now that I can customize the numbers I might use this one and let her use the Vortex. I found the ELITE handled the slopes a bit more naturally. We’ll see with the new numbers.

(Guy Sanders) #34

Help! Been trying to calibrate my Qubo. Been altering the P values but can’t get the power to match my powertap. Riding on the flats the trainer is saying I’m doing 70/80 watts and the powertap is nearly 100 more than this. Power on the up hills seem to match with the powertap. How can I get the values to match on the flats. The current values I have on the trainer are P1: 171 P2: 185 P3: 195

(Paul Hoyland) #35

Have you tried to calibrate on the desktop app? I did that, pedal at the speed it asks you to and then enter the figures when prompted. Then have a ride and see how it feels, might take a few goes.

(Guy Sanders) #36

I have been using the desktop app. I have tried doing the calibration wizard but can barely get to 30kmh pushing approx 450watts! Think the estimated speed is wrong

(Julian Selmes Buffalo) #37

Hi Guy, As the Qubo power meter is not fantastic why aren’t you pairing the Powertap with Zwift and using the cadence and interactive pairings on the Qubo? Then no need to calibrate the Qubo power meter? Zwift sends interaction to your trainer making it harder or easier as the map and your effort dictates. 30kph on 5% gradient is a ball buster!

(Guy Sanders) #38

Hi Julian, the interactive features on the trainer only work when the trainer is linked up as the power source and controllable trainer! I couldn’t get anywhere near the 40kph on the flat. It is as if the trainers resistance is not adjusting.

(A Myller @MoodCycling) #39

One thing i wish from this trainer was getting a speed to gear ratio more realistic. On the flats, I’m on 50x12 and only putting about 180-200 watts going around 20-22mph. I wish there was more resistance on the flats also, that way I can be spinning on the middle of the cog like i do on the road. The less the tires are rotating the less heat and wear. Not sure if its a combo between this trainer and zwift that i’m spinning out of gears but yeah that is the only thing i ask for on this trainer. The wattage… yeah its not perfect. Use a power meter or do it by feel and get riding. its about staying fit, not passing people or being too slow on zwift. Enjoy the most of it for the price. 

(Julian Selmes Buffalo) #40

Hi Guy,

Really? I have read that you have the option to pair what you want. Sorry, I stand corrected!