There are a number of conflicting posts on this trainer and I’d like to have the definitive answer from Zwift. I have one and contrary to most posts, mine is under powered as far as I can tell. I entered a race and was doing 122 rpm in a 53/11 gear and getting passed by everyone! It seems to hold its own on hills but on the flats, I absolutely get killed. Some posts say to change the P1/P2/P3 while others say it doesn’t matter in Zwift. I’ve tried their calibration apps and they mostly crash. Can anyone tell me how to calibrate this trainer properly?
Steve - I also have a Qubo Digital Smart B+, but mine is mounted to a set of Inside Ride Rollers. It took me a while, but I think I have the calibration right. You will definitely need a power meter to calibrate properly. Do you have one?
But here’s something you can do to see what your P1, P2 and P3 values are. Go into the MyE-Training app, and go to the “parameters” screen. At the bottom, there is a link that says “contact us” which will put all of your settings into an email. Don’t send the email to Elite, but this will tell what your P1, P2 and P3 values are, before you do anything.
I calibrate each week. Today my values are
So, those do affect Zwift! Do you set the parameters with MyE-Training mobile or desktop app? BLE or ANT+? My params are 171, 186, 155.
Yes, those P values definitely impact Zwift. If those 3 values are what you see when you hit the “contact us” email, they look OK to start with.
Does your Qubo produce reasonable resistance in the Elite app but not with Zwift?
I haven’t used the desktop app, only the mobile app on my iPad.
When you connect the Qubo to Zwift, I’ve found that it all works better when I use ANT instead of Bluetooth. I disable Bluetooth on my laptop to ensure there’s no interference.
On the pairing screen, start with “controllable trainer” in the lower right corner, and select the option that says “FE-C”.
Next, go to “power source” in the upper left corner and also select the FE-C option.
If you have a cadence sensor, pair that next, then do the heart monitor last.
If you have connected with ANT FE-C and you still don’t get reasonable resistance, you should contact Elite.
Many thanks for the verification! I see the P’s in the iPad app in “contact us” and in the advanced settings. I change them and it displays the original values again when I select P1/P2/P3 but shows the changed values when I click “contact us”… so that looks like it’s taking!
I hadn’t compared the Elite app to Zwift but I just did. Zwift and the Elite app track about the same watts. But it seems like it would no matter what since the trainer is telling both apps what it’s doing. I’ll experiment a bit more and see if I can figure out what each of the P values should be. (I’m 81 kg if anyone knows!)
I think those values are the default values your unit was shipped with. Based on things like your weight, tire pressure, etc, those values will change.
Are you connecting via Bluetooth or ANT? You will likely get better more stable results with ANT.
And also, do you have a power meter?
Tried both BLE/ANT+ and they do have different readings. Had to set the values with iPad/BLE as the MYETraining desktop application crashes on the Mac using ANT+. Unfortunately, no power meter. I will try the calibration wizard and see what that says.
EDIT: Calibration wizard produced P1=164(171), P2=187(186), P3=223(155). I’m thinking that 155 -> 223 was my problem on the flats!
So I’ll ask the question again that’s been asked 2-3 times now. Do you have a separate power meter?
The issue you are having with the Qubo is that it’s internal power meter isn’t really accurate and can only be calibrated IF you have a separate power meter to do so. That said if you DO have a separate power meter then DO NOT pair the Qubo as your power source in Zwift, only pair it as a controllable trainer. This will be your best setup with the Qubo as any power meter is going to do a better job than the Qubo’s power meter.
Zwift is calculating your speed based on your height and weight, your bike’s (in game) weight and aero factor as well as that of the chosen wheel’s weight and aero factor and finally the power that it’s being told you’re putting in. So your best option, no matter what trainer you’re using, is an accurate power meter.
“Unfortunately, no power meter” in the post immediately before yours.
Would be nice but I can’t really justify one just for Zwift. I don’t care if it’s off a little but doing 122 rpm on a 53/11 and doing less than 30 mph just wasn’t fun!
The MyETraining app calibration wizard seemed to up the P3 value considerably and so far it “feels” more appropriate. I’ll ride those values a bit and see how they compare.
You know I read that post…and somehow skipped those 4 words. I feel your pain, I started on Zwift using a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine dumb trainer and the zPower is low of reality as well. My girlfriend was using the Elite Qubo and struggled to do workouts and hit the required power numbers so I upgraded her to a direct drive trainer as I had upgraded myself to a Wahoo KICKR. Man the experience is different when you get on better gear.
The Qubo is a good entry level unit and is better if you have a separate power meter. But if you’re going to race on it and don’t have one I don’t think you’ll be satisfied with the results.
In one of the other Qubo posts on here there was a response from a Zwift rep who, as I understood it, seemed to say that the P values are not stored in the trainer. That said, obviously, my reading comprehension has been off a bit this morning. I would be interested to know if you see a real impact on your speed in Zwift by making an adjustment in the MyETraining app.
John - as you said "as I understood it, seemed to say that the P values are not stored in the trainer. " some of the older elite trainers do not store the P values, it gets stored in the Elite software, therefore it does not change the feel while riding in Zwift.
John - I will definitely report back in on the results although my preliminary tests definitely show a change.
Gerrie - I can also verify that I’ve checked the P values with the iPad and Android MyETrainer apps (from different accounts) in the “Contact Us” section and they have stored the P values in the trainer. Dave’s post confirms that as well.
Steve, You are a lucky man. Mine does not store.
Way sorry about that, Gerrie! If it helps, my SN is 57482 and Firmware 129 (both written on box). I found that if you’re clicking P1 P2 P3 in advanced options, it always shows the original values. You need to change them, get out of the app and back in, then click on the “Contact Us” link. It will bring up a lot of system/trainer parameters (different in iOS vs. Android vs. Windows) but you should see the changed P values somewhere in that list. Have fingers crossed for you!
I used the Advanced Settings on the Android MyETraining app and upon clicking P1, P2, P3 it shows the stored values. I change them, a spinning wheel shows me the percent loaded, and new values are stored. It takes only a few seconds to update. The app on the iPad would always show the original P values but would store what I entered. All these updates were done with BLE. My Mac is the only thing with ANT+ and it kept crashing.
The changes definitely have a significant effect on the power output in Zwift. I did a 1 lap race last night and unfortunately about a minute before the start, everyone (70 people) disappeared so I rode it like a time trial. While I couldn’t compare to other riders, I was definitely holding good power on the flats. MUCH better than before!
So, it takes a little work but the Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+ (paid $360 at Performance) makes a great entry level trainer… actually, I don’t know why i’d ride anything else until I’m ready to get into the wheel-on class.
Good luck and Ride On!
Thanks for the update…I’m going to check this out on mine.
I wish the page would tell you who’s logged in. The post above was me but the system logged me in as my daughter.
Here’s the rest of that post:
Thanks for the update…I’m going to check this out on mine.
It’s interesting though…basically means you can power dope in Zwift using a Qubo. I assume what the P1-3 values are doing is establishing a power slope for the trainer. By changing those values you can calibrate the system. But if you put in falsely high values intentionally it will then give Zwift falsely high readings and your avatar will ride faster.
I’m in no way suggesting that you would do this but I guarantee, sadly, there are people out there that would as they are the same ones “weight doping”.
John - i had the same thought and asked Elite about this a few times.
in my head there is two options, at least for my smart trainer.
- As you mention the P values change the power curve
- The P values set the trainer resistance to make it feel more like the real world, almost like the difficulty slider in Zwift.
It would be interesting to test this with a Power meter.
I think if giving a final word, you should just state the Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+ does not work with Zwift and leave it at that. I am all for more complicated answers but if going with a simple conclusion, that is the correct one.
Contact us does not supply P1, P2 or P3 values, as I do have a watt meter and it is chosen automatically, no other choice is given. thats a problem, because the device spins out on flats and doesnt provide any kind of noticeable resistance. ant plus is not a choice, all my devices are bluetooth and anyway the device us advertised to work with bluetooth, it does not…meaning real world, the device is useless for training.
I have the same trainer and it somewhat works fine for me. I am on the Apple TV using bluetooth. I did notice that the power has issues with 600+ and the speed acceleration. Going from 20-25mph takes a long time in a sprint. In real life, I can do that super quick. So no, this is not a trainer to race in zwift but rather to train during cold weather days.