Elite Suito power readings

Thanks Roman! I’ve bought a Viiiiva HRM as both a HRM and an ant+ to BT bridge, but it does not give feedback to the trainer. So I’ll need an ant+ dongle to try that I guess.
If I can connect the PM to the trainer in power link mode and connect the trainer to zwift over BT, I guess I can achieve the same, but then I’ll loose the data from my HRM - which is mandatory for racing.
So I might need to buy an ant+ dongle on top of the expensive HRM… Or wait for a better calibration or firmware for the suito, which would make things much easier!

Thanks Chris, that’s the next thing I will try! The weather is too nice the next couple of days to ride indoors, but I’ll try and do a quick test asap.
There is little information to find on this feature… Once the PML is enabled in the elite software it keeps working everytime you use the powermeter on the trainer? Does Zwift show the Elite trainer as power source? Or your PM? In other words, is there a way to know it is connected or not in zwift?

once you enable it make sure only one power meter is nearby and on and it will link to it, then each time you turn the trainer on if it finds that power meter it will link - you only have to turn the feature on once and it’ll always link as long as the power meter is found.

the trainer then effectively works as a bridge for your power meter and just transmits the power from your power meter so zwift will display the power from your power meter (albeit via your trainer).

so steps are.

enable powermeter link in the elite app
it’ll say once it is complete and ask you to restart your trainer.
then when you do it’ll pair to the first power meter it finds (make sure only the one you want to link is nearby)
then you are good to go.
when you launch zwift you can pair the trainer as controllable, power and cadence and it should all work fine.

from my perspective you should be able to connect both to zwift. what platform you are using? i was not able to do that on apple tv though.
the controllable part of the trainer is connected separately and does not require power meter. in your case there will be two BT connections to zwift: one BT connection - your bridge which will provide HR and power, the second - suito as controllable only. cadence source should also be from power meter, if the bridge does report it. ant+ dongle not required at all.

this. feels like riding a train. maybe for training its ok, but for general riding not much fun.

I have a windows laptop and ipad. AFAIK you can only have a single BT device connected, no?

In the meantime I received an email from Elite. They also ask me to send them 2 files with my PM data and Suito data, at various wattages… That’s the first thing I’ll do. Let’s hope they can send me a JSON file that makes the trainer a lot more accurate!

IIRC the only one device with limitations for now is apple tv with its 3 BT connections limit and one of them is reserved for remote leaving only 2 connections for user applications. on other devices you can run as many connections as you need.

I just got the Suito and my power reading are way lower compared to my assioma. I know my assioma is precise because I also test it many times with the power2max I have on another bike.

I did calibration but it didn’t help. Are there any solutions? I see that on the Elite Forum the administrators are not really active.

Any help would be appreciated

Elite asked me to send in the files from my trainer and PM with an ERG workout @100W to 350W and 3 accelerations in the last 10 minutes. Results there were quite accurate… this is their reply with the comparison:

So now all of a sudden in the Elite app, there are no issues… So is there a problem with the Suito in Zwift? Or is it just precise one day and far off the next?

@Patrick_Seurinck2813

You can use https://www.zwiftpower.com/analysis.php to compare your zwift rides.

So today, after months of having my watts stolen by my Suito, I went with the totally unscientific solution suggested on this forum a while back (sorry, can’t remember who it was) - and it was brilliant!

Basically, rode for 10 minutes to warm it up, then did a spin down calibration in Zwift and held the brush of a broom against the flywheel as it spun down to artificially slow it. Voila! For the rest of my ride the watts were roughly where they should be, and enjoyment levels were considerably higher!

Obviously not a recommended approach for anyone contesting KOMs or races etc, but if like me you’re just fed up of getting short changed for your efforts, I recommend it!

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Did you time it so that it matched the factory calibration value under the unit?

Er, no. How do I do that?

Try multiple times with slightly different touches until you get it close? :slight_smile:

Has one taken or provided a video of how you actually do this?

BTW Mine got better this week… What I did:

  • Tried that premature stopping with a broom method (with the tip of my shoe) to get it close to the factory-calibrated value (which is 8955), that lead to really inaccurate and high power, as expected. I tried maybe 3 or 4 times to gradually increase the value (to slow it down less and less) to low and high 9xxx’s.
  • Decided to calibrate with the regular method again, got 10117. (my previous inaccurate value was somewhere in the 11xxx’s I think, not sure)
  • I did all these after the 15 minute mark in a rather slow (100/135w) ride… Before I always did these things after an hour or so of riding. I’ll compare results again and if not satisfied will try a recalibration after exactly 10 minutes of riding.

Here’s a dataset from tonight’s workout. The PM is a left-only Stages so should be taken with a grain of salt. But still it’s not looking great. You can drag the mouse (select an area) to zoom in and double click to zoom out. https://analyze.dcrainmaker.com/#/public/deacfd98-f673-4ea5-562f-9f0673726c9b

Hi,
Don’t need a video, the procedure is simple, I explain how to do this in this topic (go up :wink: )

I also try the Zwift calibration which is not so bad, in climbs it is similar to the elite calibration with the factory value. But on flats, feelings are strange, like a permanent break on the wheel.
So for now I always use the factory calibration and I enjoy riding with my Suito !

I posted in another thread about my Elite Suito. Brand new, calibrated with the Elite app as per their instructions, it was obviously way off because despite collecting a new MaxHR (since I returned to Zwift) on the very first ride it refused to raise my w/kg above 2.8. I wasn’t even able to finish the ride (3R True 2) as when I got dropped it didn’t allow me enough power to get back on. See the picture for full details:

So after ONE ride I sent it back and got a Wahoo Core (only just available to me) and will do a couple of test rides later today.
Oh and you might ask why is my weight red in the above chart? I don’t understand myself, because INCREASING my weight from 63kg to 65kg certainly doesn’t help me and I was simply being honest about the extra weight I put on while I was away from Zwift!

Going back to the Elite Suito, I was adamant I did not want a repair or replacement and to be fair to the supplier, they honoured my request.