Effort on downhills Saris H3

Roger that Steve, I thanks for sharing.

Last update:
Perfect SIM ride this morning, no resistance latency, ups were up, downs were down.
Since I had a little issue the other day that I did not know whether to caulk up to a recent game update or interference today I just shut the 2.4 Ghz side of my WIFI back down. Not desirable to do this when I ride but it’s the only thing that gives consistent results. This is a fix for me until proven otherwise.

All data connections are BT direct, not thru Companion App.

Here are all my current stats:

TP-Link C7 dual band router - 2.4 Ghz radio section turned off
Apple TV 4K - operating on ethernet connection - Software update version 14.3 (18K561)
Zwift Game version - 1.0.60474
Trainer - Saris H3 Firmware version 31.062

Hey Jim what you mean by shutting down the 2.4 GHz channel ? Are you using just 5 GHz ?

Asking because I don’t have 5Ghz on the access point in the pain cave, so if you are trying something different, I can try it as well.

Also, does anybody knows if there is a specific 2.4Ghz wi FI channel that is for sure not causing interferences with Bluetooth ?

I am trying channel 11, but if there is a safer option (not based on pure try & see) I would use it…

Zwift’s own article recommends using the lower-numbered channels, e.g. 3.

Marco, to be clear I am running the Apple TV with ethernet, but the router that it is connected to I only have the 5 Ghz WIFI section turned on when I am riding, the 2.4 is turned off. I did try setting the channel on the 2.4 section. Tried channel 1 first, had complete BT connection failure within just a few minutes. Reset router to channel 11 and had success for a number of rides. But, as I mentioned in my last post I had some minor resistance latency the other day that I couldn’t explain so I just decided to turn the 2.4 section clear off when riding to be sure.
Steve, thanks for sharing that link. I had not seen that tech article on the subject.
Marco, if your equipment limits you to 2.4 only I guess you will just have to do some experimenting on the channel setting to see what works.

Well guys, my bubble got popped this morning. I was 14.3 miles into a planned 15 miles ride and had a complete Bluetooth dropout. So I guess its back to the drawing board on chasing this most aggravating ghost down! :frowning:
Now I will say this up until the dropout the trainer resistance was perfect…

Jim, Marco, Tracy, Scott W and a cast of thousands:

You have done incredible work over >2 months to figure this out…and it still laughs in our faces. Believe me, I feel your disgust.

I’m unexpectedly riding IRL for the next month while I help my trauma surgeon daughter, who works at a major US hospital and has had Covid twice in 2020.

Leaning towards being an ex-Zwift customer in Feb, if they can’t fix the problem.

Would love to host you all on the real Alpe d’Huez someday, if you’re up for it.

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Old H3 threads are getting zombied today, so I will share my experience with a weird waffling resistance in ERG mode on my H3.

I solved it by uninstalling the Garmin Connect app on my smartphone. When I was pairing my trainer via Bluetooth to the Zwift app running on Windows, somehow the GC app on my Android was interfering with the BLE signal.

Once I uninstalled it - ERG worked correctly, and the random BLE drops from the H3 went away.

This is not to smear Garmin in any way - I suspect that other fitness apps (Wahoo / Saris’s own utility, etc) running on a smartphone stay active even when backgrounded, and seek out a Bluetooth signal to bond to.

If you want to troubleshoot this theory for yourself, I’d recommend uninstalling rather than just closing the app, because “closing” may not terminate the app.

Disabling BT on the phone where we have Connect should achieve the same effect without requiring a Connect uninstall tough… It has been attempted without success.

There is something weird going on between iOS, Saris H3 and Zwift after one of last iOS updates.

It is not happening with Rouvy or RGT, so it seems that it that combination that is causing issues… Not sure where or why.

This business is making zwift unusable for me. It’s so tiring to keep trying > get on the turbo, 3-4 restarts before saying f**k’it and giving up.

I’m SO GLAD it’s not just me. I’m at my whits end. And yes. As others stated, the first time I experienced this was on April 1 and I too thought it was an April fools joke! Tonight was unbearable. I simply quit my ride. 300 watts on a 4% downhill. Really???

Setup: H3, ATV, Garmin HR.

All combos imaginable. 100% trainer, 50% trainer. Tried All pairing through companion…nada. Tried BT to H3, sans HR…nada. Tried 5 vs 2.4…Nada. Gave up on the Apple Watch for HR long ago and could never get that to work either. ( which is why I purchased a garmin strap).

Just. So. Tired.

I want to throw this out there (because weirder things have happened…and well, we are grabbing at straws)

Do any or all of you wear an Apple Watch while Zwifting? I do not use my watch to track my HR while Zwifting so it is NOT paired while on Zwift. However, it WAS at one point. I deleted the zwift app on my watch after trying for 6 months, unsuccessfully, to get any app to pick up my heart rate while Zwifting via my watch. (I even did a tech hack to no avail). Could the watch be doing something to conflict, even if not actively in the game?

My current setup is as follows for data flow (probably not relevant, but here goes): Zwift auto updates to Strava which auto updates to Health. This is done after the fact.

I’m going to take off my watch tomorrow and keep it upstairs far from my trainer as a test. <grabs at 126th straw>

Why not…

Hello

So, I bought a H3 this weekend (a nice upgrade from my Tacx Vortex for the noise). But I experienced the same kinds of issue. For instance, I need to work very hard on a downhill.

I’m using my Pixel 4 (Google phone).

Please help!

I fixed my problem… originally I was pairing my H3 with an iPad and had no issues. Then I switched out the iPad for brand new Apple TV 4K device so I could feed it to a 40" screen. That’s when trouble started and almost every day it got worse. I tried everything. Zwift Support has been non-responsive. I gave up on Apple TV and went back to the iPad. I tried plugging a Lightning-to-HDMI adapter into the iPad to feed to the 40" monitor; the H3 worked fine but the graphics on the 40" screen were sub par. I then smartened up and started using my existing Windows laptop to run Zwift. Using HDMI cable, I projected it to the 40" screen. I am no longer having an issue. Seems to be a platform thing, especially Apple TV paired with H3. Doesn’t seem to be the H3. Try a different platform to run Zwift on and make sure to calibrate your H3 using the Saris app. iPad with H3 worked for me. Windows laptop with H3 working for me. Brand new latest Apple TV 4K not working with H3. Fortunately I was able to return the Apple TV and get a refund. Good luck.

This issue returned last night. Doing a meetup on Out and Back I had to put out considerable effort not he downhill of the volcano. The trainer flywheel sounded like it was being slowed down. I warmed up for ten minutes, checked my trainer firmware, did a calibration in the saris app, and then started the meet up. Later in the route the 8 percent grade before the bridge was easier than the 0% grade crossing the bridge. It’s maddening.

ATV (game updated)
Saris H3 (updated firmware, trainer one year old)
Wahoo Tickr

Connected via bluetooth directly to ATV. Bluetooth shut off on cell phone.

I had the same off and on resistance lag issues since I purchased a Saris H3 back in September. I have been using it with Apple TV. Had it again this afternoon. After reading all the comments, I moved the ATV closer to the trainer. It was 7 to 8 feet away and have moved it 2 feet away. Seemed to have solved the problem immediately! I am although keeping my hopes low and will wait a few days / weeks before shouting victory as I have already tried a number of things during the last few months. Will keep you posted.

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Well. It figures enough. Didn’t work this morning. However, ATV was still on. After deplugging and replugging it, the trainer worked perfectly. I have turned off the ATV this morning with the function Sleep (Mise en veille) and will see how it reacts. I suspect that the distance might therefore not be an issue. Stay tuned while I post the results of these next tests.

Gary:
This is EXACTLY what I did tonight and I am happy to report success. In fact, it felt smoother than it has in months. Yes…months. I’ve been giving report outs on my latest and greatest test configurations and tonight was ANT+.

After what I thought was a successful fix a few nights ago, I had the issues again. (The ‘temp fix’ was uninstalling and reinstalling the Zwift app on the ATV and connecting via ATV and not via companion).

I am happy to report great success with ANT+ on a PC. I purchased it on Amazon. image|281x500

So the two of us can confirm that if we do not use the game through the ATV and use it via ANT+ and a laptop it works perfectly. Seems to be a blue tooth issue with ATV.