Thanks Nigel, that is good to know the spin down times are similar… Yes My wheel never stops completely but it does run about 1 minute on its own after it tells me to stop pedaling, and then comes back with the spindown times… I have put in a ticket to cycleops yesterday… I really thought their new SW release from Dec 19, would fix these things… but I think it is actually worse then the Sept version… Yesterday was the first day I had the Dec 19 SW installed and I had a few drop outs… They still 95% of the time occur on a transition from a descent to an uphill. Only once today did it occur on the 3% grade. I was just pedaling smoothly putting out about 275 watts and I just went to zero. No descent or ascent… just a steady incline at 3%… Thats the first time that has happened. Anyway the lag that people complain about is certainly there regardless if one puts the instant or 3 second delay selection on Zwift… When I start pedaling, it takes about 4 seconds to get my avatar moving etc…Tonight I checked my internet speed just for fun (hardwire) and it was 63mbps download and 5 mbps upload… I will watch that tomorrow when I ride to see if there is any correlation… (I kind of doubt it , but)… I also have my hammer paired with FE-C for power source and FE-C for controllable trainer, HR monitor with ANT+ and Cadence with ANT+ (I have bluetooth turned off and wireless turned off just to be sure of not interference.) (If thats of interest to anybody here)… Have fun and dont fall off the bike going down those mountain descents on Zwift!!!)
wow, I’m still running firmware 31.036 released on September. After reading this posts I’m really scared of upgrading mine to the latest firmware.
To be honest the only thing bothering me atm is the snapping sound that happens every now and again, even though I’ve already removed the grease in excess. I have experienced the power drop outs a handful of times. I had to restart the trainer to make it work again… is like the power goes temporarily to 0 and then back to actual value. Over the past 2 months I have been using my crank based PM (stages) to be the source of truth as far as power is concerned. With this set up I haven’t had much connectivity issues. Worth mentioning, that I’ve had a power dropout with stages as well. For the time being it was a one time event. I was zwifting (racing maybe?) downhill and I stopped pedalling… and boom… the nasty power dropout occurred.
Most of my zwift rides are in workout mode (with ERG) though…
Is anyone aware of similar issues with other smart trainers? Are you experiencing the power dropouts during races, free rides or even during workouts as well?
My issues with the Rouvy calibration is that you start pedaling to get within the required speed range, but once you get there the Hammer looses all resistance and suddenly your spinning at like 130 rpm and going over the speed range, then banging the chain as you try to ease the rpms back off. What the hell is up with that?
After getting a lot of drops in erg mode on the PC I “free rode” on the ipad last night and it worked perfectly for an hour. Most of it was in a group…FWIW. Next step…ipad ERG mode!
Just finished off 46 miles… London route. Few notes to my setup: I moved my ANT _ USB dongle which was under my sweat mat (though about 12 inches from the trainer electronics) to actually taped onto the leg of the hammer trainer… So about 12 inches still but out in the open (tape not covering the dongle). I dont think you can really get it any closer… I also removed my cadence sensor (no more pairing to it. So now I just have the trainer and the Garmin heart rate monitor connected though ANT _… Hammer Power and Hammer controlled trainer are both paired to FE-C. Though my computer is hard wired enet, I configured my house routers ( 2 of them) to channel 3 and channel 4 for the 2.4GHZ signals (As Zwift says there could be some interference with other 2.4ghz signals) My routers are on a total different floor than my trainer and hard wired computer. My fan is 10 feet away from the trainer and nowhere near the USB dongle to cause interference… TV also about 10 feet away., HDMI cable from the computer is about 10 feet from the USB ANT_ dongle and the cables are at least 3 feet from each other at their closes point… So I have this set up as clean as possible I believe as ZWIFT and others have mentioned… So I roder 46 miles today (Alone slow and one group ride. London route to no large descents and inclines except for that staircase… So today I only lost the signal one time and that was going up the steep staircase! But I also noticed others also had similar problems(group ride)…So this problem is either a Zwift or Hammer problem, but it certainly still exists even with the newly released Dec 19 Cycleops hammer version…Maybe Santa will bring a fix soon!!! (I also did not have my Iphone in use today sitting by me while cycling.(So that also should have made for a totally clean no interference setup…) Good luck… Dont fall off your bikes or hit any dogs while riding in London!!!
I have just about experienced every problem on here, from the clunking sound to resistance problems in erg mode to eventually having connection problems (red light constantly coming on, having to switch it on and off many times to get the green/blue light) It is currently back with Saris - regret buying it as there is 2/3 very good alternatives.
Yesterday I went and bought a Wahoo Kicker from Roswell Bicycles, to compare it to the Cyclops Hammer I have had for almost 2 months. I rode the Wahoo Kicker in Utopia last night up the mountains and had – NO DROPOUTS _ in power or speed where the Hammer would always drop out on the sharp hill transitions. Based on last night sride, I took my Cycleops Hammer back to REI who was more than happy to take it Back… Great Company that REI !!! So I am now sticking with the Wahoo Kicker. Got the wahoo kicker app on the Iphone… Got it talking to the iphone, got it talking to the computer-- all real simple… Rode some short Zwift rides just to see how it felt compared to the Hammer… Seems calibration was close… Maybe a little higher watts on the kicker compared to the hammer. After 10 minutes a made a calibration with the Kicker in Zwift- yes inside Zwift… Calibration passed. Then rode the 2000 feet climb to the watopia mountains… Power etc all was similar to the Hammer, but again-- not a single drop out anywhere! Avg power is now at 266 watts… (12 higher than the Hammer) but that could be fresh legs etc…Smile on my face!!!
ANyway Hammer would be a good product with Zwift if only they would fix those firmware dropouts that they have been trying to fix since at least March of 2017… Sept 2017 and Dec 2017 firmware releases have not fixed this major issue even though they say they have addressed it and made it better with each of those release… I am not seeing it!!. Moving on…
T Rock, I’m considering the same thing. My trust in Cycleops is shattered, and the reliability of the Hammer is now in question. Even if they eventually figure out how to get it running properly, who’s to say they don’t goof up with another firmware update later on that throws everything out of whack again. I’m not sure I want to take the chance. Especially for such an expensive trainer.
I’m just about to move on the new Kickr, but my only problem with it is that it appears to be solely reliant upon iOS and other smart devices for calibration and firmware updates – being one of the six people remaining in the United State without a smartphone, that would mean an added expense for me by having to go out and buy a tablet of something just to download an app that will communicate with the Kickr.
But like I said, I’m not sure I want to be dealing any long with the Cycleops headaches.
That’s funny. 1 of 6 left. I did not think about that since I am the other side 1 of 800 million with apple. You have any good friends you can use their iPhone when a new release comes out??? Good luck.
It’s been a year and they can’t or won’t fix the zero watt dropout issue. I am going to my LBS tomorrow and ordering a KICKR. I am then going to contact Saris and see if they will let me return my Cycleops Hammer.
Smart move, Brian. That’s just what I’m doing this morning. Within the hour I’ll be heading off to the shop for a refund on this defective Hammer, and then I’ll be off to the next shop to purchase the new Kickr. And I do plan on spreading the word about the Hammer’s issues, offering a word of warn to anyone interested that they should avoid it like the plague. Screw Cycleops!
Sorry to hear that the problems you are having are persisting.
Have any of you looked at the article here on this site: " Multiple Trainer Options Visible while Pairing over ANT+"? https://support.zwift.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000345823-Multiple-Trainer-Options-Visible-while-Pairing-over-ANT- It essentially fixed all of my Lag and Dropout issues. I’m glad I did because it saved me time and money and made my Zwift experience a lot more pleasant.
Of course, if you really want to buy a new trainer get the Wahoo Kicker Climb as well…If I were in the market for an indoor trainer other than the CyclOps that’s what I would go for.
I still get the snapping sound occasionally. I think it may actually a magnetic load artifact.
^^^ I’ve been wondering about that. Sometimes I notice that my Controllable Trainer says “Hammer FE-C”, but my power says “Hammer pwr”. So I’ve been changing it to FE-C as well before I ride…
Yep. That solved it for me too. Last March I had one or two dropouts when I first started Zwifting. Then I noticed I had more than one option for power and controller. After choosing Ant + FE C on both I have zero dropouts. With new update, lag is pretty much negligible.
Hi all. I had all the same issues you folks mention. It did not matter. It worked the same. Just make sure you have fe-c for the controllable trainer. That’s key. But at the end of the day the hammer has firmware issues working with Zwift. Cyclops has tried to fix these drop out issues on hill transitions since March 2017. No success. I took my hammer back. Got a wahoo kicker and have had ZERO issues. Put in over 300 miles in Zwift and never lost power or speed on any hill transitions. I am able to race with others etc. Go Get a kicker or some other smart trainer until cycle ops folks fix their problems. You are just wasting your time with the hammer. I had to pay an extra 300 bucks to get the kicker when I took the hammer back. So that was tough to swallow. But I’d rather have a product that works 100% of the time vs 98% of the time when spending these kinds of bucks. And the kicker has much simpler instructions, set up, spin down compatible with Zwift etc etc. Good luck
I’m a big fan of Wahoo products, I have the Elemnt Bolt and I think it is the greatest cycling computer there is out there right now. I have never seen a Kickr hooked up to Zwift, so I am just wondering about your assertion it is simpler to hook up to Zwift than the Hammer which to me is super simple and easy to do. What is easier or simpler? Thanks.
Switched from the Hammer to KICKR two weeks ago. Everything is working perfectly for me. No connection issues or any other problems. Very happy!
Anybody switching from Hammer to Kickr (or the opposite), I’d really appreciate more impressions from you. I’ve had no chance to try Hammer yet, but Kickr is a bit disappointing in terms of ‘realistic feel’. I know otherwise Kickr is among the best, but what I need most for my indoor training is less boredom and for that I may even compromise all the issues reported so far with Hammer.
The author of the thread implied Hammer was no more realistic after all, and if it’s the case I see no reason to go with it but Kickr, Neo or Direto.
The latest firmware update for the Hammer that came out yesterday finally resolves the issues people have been having.
I use a Hammer and like the feel of it. The big heavy flywheel helps maintain momentum when hitting a hill on Zwift rather than slowing down too quickly. Personally for an indoor trainer how smooth it is and the noise is what’s important and how it works in ERG mode doing a workout.
Re boredom. I doubt road feel or lack of it will make much difference. It’s up to you to make your indoor training more interesting by doing structured workouts, group rides an races. Just free riding on Zwift on the same old roads is pretty boring.
So I sold my Hammer and bought a KICKR a month ago before the most recent update. Really happy but lost $500 in the swap. Oh well. Anyway, I have a highly ranked review of the Hammer on Amazon and would like to update it if the most recent firmware update fixed it for everyone. So, how did it work for you?