Since the update I haven’t been able to connect my Kinetic Rock n’ Roll Smart Control or Power2Max power meter to Zwift. I’m using a 2017 iMac on Mojave. Both the companion app and built-in bluetooth aren’t working. Ant+ works fine for the P2M
Nothing works, but I can connect both with ease to my old Macbook Air (which is running Monterey && turned off while testing the iMac).
I am soooo sick of tickr freezes (I have 2 of them) that I’m scrapping them for a Polar H9 which works flawlessly on my IOS and Win11 devices. Don’t know what has changed but there is nothing more frustrating than being all suited up ready to ride only to have the Headwind blasting cold air on me at full tilt not to mention HR frozen on zwift because the tickr has locked up. So jersey comes off to reset tickr by rr battery. Happens almost every time I ride now which is about 6 times/wk. Done with tickr.
I agree, its a pain in the ■■■■.
Though I dont get that problem with my Tickr & Garmin watch - Its specifically Tickr & Zwift and its only got this bad in recent weeks\months.
For me, I have very little doubt this sits with Zwift as cause and fix, but there is very little confidence in this being rectified or even acknowledged by Zwift.
I have the same issue with my Tickr, It’ll freeze on 135 bpm when I put it on & my HR is probably ~60.
But that incorrect value will show both on Zwift & my Garmin.
I can usually fix this by re-wetting the strap & my chest, but then it takes a minute or so for the HR to be accurate.
I also have two Tickrs, and it happens with both.
Wetting doesn’t work, believe me when I say I have tried just about everything to prevent freezes. Tickr’s were great when they first hit the market. Reasonably affordable and reliable. They just worked. Not any longer imo. Happy with Polar H9 with the exception of the strap – too fragile at snaps.
I agree that the Tickr was fine for a long time, but then this issue started.
I’ll probably get a Polar or a Garmin HRM Dual.
I’m on a Kickr Gen1 (w/ Stages PM), and after the latest Zwift update, I can barely hold 200W. The week before the update, 200W was Zone 2 for me at about 125 bpm. I could ride forever. 200W now brings me up to 140-150bpm to hold (feels like I am pushing 240W).
I’ve recalibrated Kickr and Stages. No change, so I assume it’s the resistance. Kickr Gen1 has not had a firmware update since 2017, so there’s no rolling back. I really don’t want to buy a new Kickr to fix this.
Had exactly the same on a kickr 17, also with no firmware changes available
To continue training the only thing I could do was splash cash on a new trainer
I hope I won’t have to do that!
I am having trouble with resistance changing beyond reason. You have a 2016 Kickr, which according to your posts is the same year as mine. Mine started acting up 2 days ago. I got a message on my desktop screen where the power normally appears. It said “connection failure”. A few minutes before the message and then after the message the power reading came back, but jumped up and down. I was following my ride on my cell phone, and sometimes reading would drop to 0, but there was at least 150 watts or more on desktop. Readings were not agreeing at all. At no time did desktop drop to 0, but loads continued. I was having to pedal so hard to overcome varibity that Zwift increased my FTP.
Though you stated that the 2016 model would not be affected by FTMS, it apparently is. Mark Hulskamp in his recent posts said he has same problem.
I am not a computer guru and do not understand what you are discussing, but can you post in language that I can follow what I can do to use my Kickr and Zwift. I am out of business till I hear from you? I know you are working on the problem, but can you put something together to solve the 2016 version problem?
I have gen 3 kickr and noticed a couple of days ago in a race the the trainer not responding to hills and draft like it has in past. Raced again this Sunday and same thing…like a brake is being applied ever so slightly through out the whole ride. A friend who races with me has a different trainer (cycleops early model) with similar issue. When changing the trainer difficultly in settings, very little feed back is changed. Hopefully someone at Zwift can look into this issue. Not sure as to how to notify zwift of my issue. Thanks.
I’m having the same resistance issues as Mantis, Bassett, Firestone etc. I have a kickr '17, so no firmware to roll back to. It is like pedaling through quicksand or molasses, and it feels like the brake is being applied the entire time. Avg wattage reported by Zwift is down by about 100 watts, although it can vary. Frustrating. I am close to ending my subscription with Zwift as it has become unusable.
Jeremy, I selected a program in ERG mode. The watts displayed seemed to match the load on the pedals. There was some variability in actual watts displayed, but there was only the normal plus or minus approximately 5 watts. I would conclude that the problem is a Zwift problem, not a Kickr problem. You had mentioned in an earlier post that that 2016 Kickr was not affected by the variable resistance problem.
This was exactly what I was experiencing, and I solved it (for now). I finally figured out that the Bluetooth signals on my Kickr '14 and Stages PM were in and out constantly. Five green bars to one red bar and back, back and forth, back and forth. No complete drops, but super weak. On devices that did not show a back and forth, they were barely readable. I changed my wifi router 2.4 GHz channel to 11 and likely will disable 2.4 GHz altogether. I also unpaired as many Bluetooth devices as I could find in my home and then repaired what I needed. In the end, Zwift, Kickr, and Stages worked normally! Could the Zwift update have caused these Bluetooth issues? I think so. Something in it (as the post title says) changed Bluetooth settings.
Win, thanks for info. I discovered that I have gen 1, 2014 Kickr, not a 2016. I know that some of the design was unique to 2014. I don’t know if all the above posts pertain to my Kickr.
I was in error on an earlier post. ERG is not working either. There is no effort on the pedal, but the indicator shows an effort. The effort display will show variable numbers, none above the ERG value. My cell phone shows recorded effort dropping to 0 on occasion, but desktop does not agree. Turned off Zwift and rode my Kickr with the Wahoo app activated
. It acted like a dumb trainer, but seemed to read correctly. Though I don’t normally use my Garmin 830 on my Kickr. I did this time and the Kickr and Garmin numbers agree. Is my 2014 Kickr having the same Zwift variability problems as in the posts prior to mine? I’m aware that Wahoo made an electronic change after the 2014 model. Any idea when you all will have a solution? Weather stinks here, good Zwift days.
@shooj is there anyway you can flag this thread back to zwift engineering?
There seems to be a trend of pre ftms Bluetooth kickr users who are struggling since updates were implemented.
Sorry, I am not going to spend half a day EVERY MONTH reinstalling all of my Apple TV apps because the Zwift app can’t remember if it is allowed to access Bluetooth.
Last night was the 3rd month in a row that Zwift has lost the ability to connect to Bluetooth devices after working perfectly for weeks. My “fix” is to delete the Zwift app on Apple TV and reinstall it, which works for about a month then rinse and repeat…
Yesterday was in a bunch ride on the Richmond fan flats loop. Anything with a downhill run in it had to drive hard to stay anywhere with the bunch as felt like riding through mud. Something is seriously amiss. Add to this, even if not using my stages power meter cranks as the power source, I cannot connect these as a cadence sensor despite them providing cadence,
Hi, I have a Tacx Vortex and it usually connects to the zwift app via Bluetooth without any problems at all.
However, today I spent about 40mins trying different methods, all the tricks of the trade and could not connect to the app at all. My vortex Bluetooth is working perfectly as in the end I downloaded the Tacx app and used it for a ride.
I have been injured during Jan and this is the first time back since the update. This is the only change in my set up so can only imagine it is the problem.
Do we have any indication of when this will be fixed?